Topically applied KTTKS: a review

Abstract

SynopsisSkin ageing is an irreversible process that is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The possibility of arresting or delaying skin ageing represents a large research area and has a big potential in the cosmetics sector. Recently, the polypeptide lysine-threoninethreonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has attracted a lot of attention and it features in numerous up-market cosmetic products where it has become erroneously associated with the term 'pentapeptide'. In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials. Ré suméLe vieillissement cutané est un processus irréversible causé par des facteurs tant intrinsèques qu'extrinsèques. La possibilité d'arrêter ou de retarder le vieillissement cutané représente un grand secteur de recherche et grand potentiel dans le secteur cosmétique. Récem-ment, le polypeptide lysine-thréonine-thréonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) a attiré l'attention. Il est présent dans de nombreux produits cosmétiques haut de gamme où il est faussement associé au terme de 'penta peptide'. Dans cette revue, nous examinons en détail KTTKS et ses dérivés majeurs, avec dans la littérature des informations limitées quant à l'évaluation de ses propriétés physicochimiques et celles de perméation cutanée théoriques. Il semble y avoir un fondement à propos de son action in vitro sur des fibroblastes avec un effet de KTTS stimulant de la synthèse de la matrice extracellulaire, avec une activité spécifique aux collagènes de type I et III et à l'expression de la fibronectine. Cependant, il y a, dans la littérature, une absence surprenante de données concernant la pénétration cutanée in vitro et il y a relativement peu d'études cliniques utilisant cet ingrédient.

Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature

“…KTTKS is a matrikine derived from the proteolytic hydrolysis of collagen 46. This peptide promotes the production of ECM and the expression of fibronectin and collagen types I and III in vitro 46.…”

“…This peptide promotes the production of ECM and the expression of fibronectin and collagen types I and III in vitro 46. It also stabilizes mRNAs that upregulate TGF-β, which may increase collagen production 47.…”

Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry to determine the stability of collagen pentapeptide (KTTKS) in rat skin

“…The poor transport of peptides often originates from the lack of stability due to enzymatic or chemical degradation as well as hydrophilicity of peptides [5]. In fact, peptides are rapidly degraded by enzymatic metabolism in the dermal layer of the skin [7][8][9].…”

“…Among several subfragments of the C-terminal propeptide of type I collagen (residues 197-241), KTTKS (residues 212-216 in type I collagen) was found to be the minimum sequence necessary to stimulate the production of collagen and fibronectin in a variety of mesenchymal cells [2]. Due to this stimulating effect of collagen synthesis, KTTKS has attracted great attention as a cosmeceutical peptide ingredient for providing anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects [3][4][5].…”

Characteristics and Applications of Bioactive Peptides in Skin Care

“…피부 미용 소재로써 BAP의 기능 중 cellular messenger에 관한 연구는 가장 최근이며 [6] 2009년 미국의 경우 스킨케어 성분으로 시장에서 확인된 피부 미용 소재 BAP는 25여 종으로 파악되 었고 [4] 주요 기능은 진피층 콜라겐 합성에 관련된 것이었 다 [5]. Caffeoyl tripeptide-1 (CT-1), digalloyl tetrapeptide-19 (DT-19), nicotinoyl tripeptide-1 (NT-1)은 Fmoc 기반의 고체 상 펩타이드 합성법 (solid phase peptide synthesis; SPPS) 을 이용하여 최근에 개발된 새로운 BAP이다.…”