Viewing the mobile body as the source of the design process

Simoes, Ines

doi:10.1080/17543266.2013.793742

Cited by 9 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 9 publications

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“…Focusing on the fact that dressed humans move, Inês Simões (2012Simões ( , 2013 suggests the creation of block patterns that better embody this moving essence, targeting the representation of the body as a 'mobile entity' (Simões, 2013). Expanding on this, Lindqvist (2015) proposes an alternative to the well-established method of measuring the human body via the tailoring matrix (or the measurement of the human body by parallel and vertical lines).…”

Section: From Industrial Practice To Academic Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

Noronha

Chun

Soares

2020

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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This article studies an experimental pattern-cutting workshop part of a series of extension courses offered by a Brazilian University. It addresses ways in which to develop student-centred approaches to learning, highlighting the situatedness of the practitioner. In the workshop, the participants were invited to explore personal experiences as informants to their creative pattern-cutting process. The design outcomes show that experimental exercises are open to new successful encounters but also to failure, chance and disruptions. The activity is described and investigated from a participant observation viewpoint in terms of what an experimental approach to learning pattern-cutting may offer fashion design education. The results contribute to understand the roles of expectations in pattern-cutting activities, and challenges the teacher-orientation paradigm in fashion. Through these findings, the study adds to previous academic endeavours in creative pattern-cutting and fashion design education. The article concludes with a discussion on future directions for both education and practice.

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Section: From Industrial Practice To Academic Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

Noronha

Chun

Soares

2020

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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“…A study that focuses on non-stretch woven fabrics is The Contributions for a New Body Representation Paradigm in Pattern Design, by Inês Simões (2012). By integrating everyday body movements into the pattern drafting process, Simoes (2013) developed an alternative mannequin design and basic pattern blocks. Although these are inspired by the mobile body, they do not differ from or challenge how traditional pattern blocks are divided on the body (see Figure 3).…”

Section: Alternative Pattern Drafting Practicesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…researchers likeSimoes (2013),Wang (2012), andMcCann et al (2009) have developed alternative pattern blocks, these are for adults and are either too closely related to the traditional pattern blocks or limited to the use of stretch fabrics. The development of alternative kinetic pattern blocks from the three kinetic one-piece patterns developed in section 4.4.1.2. will therefore be guided by two other factors: 1) the direction and location of grading lines needed to develop the size ranges from the one-piece kinetic pattern blocks, and 2) the seam lines found in activewear and sportswear.…”

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confidence: 99%

A Kinetic Flat-pattern Method for Childrenswear

Goronga

2024

Preprint

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This Major Research Paper examines the relationship between the moving body and alternative pattern drafting compared to traditional or conventional methods of creating patterns for childrenswear. Applying Rickard Lindqvist’s kinetic garment construction theory, this practicebased research developed functional kinetic pattern blocks. The aim was to identify differences between the kinetic and traditional pattern blocks and to determine if kinetic pattern blocks provide more room for movement. The research process involved the development of a grading method specifically for kinetic pattern blocks. Analysis of the kinetic and traditional blocks involved three methods: a visual analysis of the patterns, a wear test of muslins, and a fit model survey. Results indicate that the kinetic pattern blocks have more ease at the shoulder and armhole and that kinetic muslins provide a larger range of movement. Important contributions are the kinetic pattern blocks for childrenswear and a method for grading kinetic blocks.

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“…This trend is covering over the problem of fit, rather than contributing to better fit (Tyler, Mitchell, & Gill, 2012). Ultimately, apparel practitioners rely on fabric attributes rather than providing pattern shapes suited to the design (Simoes, 2013).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Stretch to fit – made to fit^†

Dove

2016

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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It is widely recognised that elastic fibres (spandex and lycra) are used to impart stretch to fabrics. The amount the apparel stretches to fit depends on the elastic fibres' characteristics and recovery properties, in providing pressure comfort and ease of movement. Made to fit, by comparison, is the construction of two-dimensional non-stretch pattern blocks using body darts to denote the 3D form. Building patternmaking theory can lead to a better understanding of the body to garment interaction, and the fit of apparel. This investigation commences with the identification of garment block construction methods for woven and jersey apparel, and corresponding garment fit expectations, comparing two published patternmaking methods. It proposes a system of adding bust cup grading into non-stretch garment blocks. The experimental results indicate that the proposed method would be easy to implement and could generate patterns with an improved bust girth fit. The purpose of this paper is to show that a new grading system would better serve the female population than the system currently in use. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification as labelling would also indicate bust cup sizing. ARTICLE HISTORY

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Viewing the mobile body as the source of the design process

Cited by 9 publications

References 9 publications

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

A Kinetic Flat-pattern Method for Childrenswear

Stretch to fit – made to fit^†

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Viewing the mobile body as the source of the design process

Cited by 9 publications

References 9 publications

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

Failed expectations, successful disruptions: experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspective

A Kinetic Flat-pattern Method for Childrenswear

Stretch to fit – made to fit†

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About

Stretch to fit – made to fit^†