Wave‐current interactions in a wave‐dominated tidal inlet

Dodet, Guillaume; Bertin, Xavier; Bruneau, Nicolas; Fortunato, A. B.; Nahon, Alphonse; Roland, Aron

doi:10.1002/jgrc.20146

Cited by 113 publications

(152 citation statements)

References 49 publications

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“…During Hurricane Irene (Aug 28) incident significant wave heights were greater than 5 m, and the model predictions of bay water levels are more accurate when wave forcing is included (Figure 2-5B). Unlike previous numerical results [Dodet et al (2013); Olabarrieta et al (2011)], the increase in the bay water level owing to wave forcing is relatively small, as discussed below, likely because water flows out of the bay into Vineyard Sound through Edgartown Channel rather than accumulating in a closed basin.…”

Section: Model-data Comparisonscontrasting

confidence: 53%

Hydrodynamics of a multiple tidal inlet system : Katama Bay, Martha�s Vineyard, MA

Orescanin¹

2015

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Observations, theoretical models, and a numerical model (ADCIRC) are used to investigate the effects of tides, waves, bay bathymetry, and changing inlet geometry on the hydrodynamics of the multiple-inlet Katama system, Martha's Vineyard, MA. Momentum fluxes from breaking waves drive water into the inlet, nearly stopping the 2 m/s ebb currents during a hurricane. The evolving morphology of Katama Inlet has a dominant effect on tidal distortion and bay circulation. As Katama inlet lengthened, narrowed, and shoaled between 2011 and 2014, the relative effects of friction (observed and simulated) increased greatly, resulting in reduced circulation energy, an increase in the M6 tidal constituent, and changes in velocity asymmetries that are consistent with an evolution from flood to ebb dominance. The effects of changing inlet parameters (e.g., inlet geometry, bay bathymetry, friction, tidal forcing) are quantified via a lumped element model that accounts for the presence of a shallow flood shoal that limits flow from the ocean into the bay. As the difference in depth between inlet and flood shoal increases, the amplitude and phase of the incoming tide are increasingly modified from predictions without a flood shoal, and flows into the bay are further hindered.

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Section: Model-data Comparisonscontrasting

confidence: 53%

Hydrodynamics of a multiple tidal inlet system : Katama Bay, Martha�s Vineyard, MA

Orescanin¹

2015

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“…The overestimated wave height during ebb may be a consequence of insufficient wave dissipation due to whitecapping incorporated by the saturation-based whitecapping formulation of Van der Westhuysen (2007). The enhanced dissipation of waves on negative current gradients after a recently published formulation (Van der Westhuysen, 2012) was successfully applied in Dodet et al (2013). In the present study, however, uncertainty as to the bathymetry at the measuring site does not allow for the calibration of the model by the application of different whitecapping formulations.…”

Section: Hydrodynamicsmentioning

confidence: 76%

Morphological and sedimentological response of a mixed-energy barrier island tidal inlet to storm and fair-weather conditions

Herrling

2014

Earth Surf. Dynam.

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Abstract. The environment of ebb-tidal deltas between barrier island systems is characterized by a complex morphology with ebb-and flood-dominated channels, shoals and swash bars connecting the ebb-tidal delta platform to the adjacent island. These morphological features reveal characteristic surface sediment grain-size distributions and are subject to a continuous adaptation to the prevailing hydrodynamic forces. The mixed-energy tidal inlet Otzumer Balje between the East Frisian barrier islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog in the southern North Sea has been chosen here as a model study area for the identification of relevant hydrodynamic drivers of morphology and sedimentology. We compare the effect of high-energy, wave-dominated storm conditions to mid-term, tide-dominated fair-weather conditions on tidal inlet morphology and sedimentology with a processbased numerical model. A multi-fractional approach with five grain-size fractions between 150 and 450 µm allows for the simulation of corresponding surface sediment grain-size distributions. Net sediment fluxes for distinct conditions are identified: during storm conditions, bed load sediment transport is generally onshore directed on the shallower ebb-tidal delta shoals, whereas fine-grained suspended sediment bypasses the tidal inlet by wave-driven currents. During fair weather the sediment transport mainly focuses on the inlet throat and the marginal flood channels. We show how the observed sediment grain-size distribution and the morphological response at mixed-energy tidal inlets are the result of both wave-dominated less frequent storm conditions and mid-term, tide-dominant fair-weather conditions.

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“…Dans les zones de déferlement, les gradients des tensions de radiation génèrent des courants et une surélévation du plan d'eau jusqu'à ce qu'un équilibre se produise avec le gradient de pression barotrope (LONGUET-HIGGINS & STEWART, 1964). Cette surélévation est sensible sur les plages et des études ont montré qu'elle pouvait également se propager dans les lagunes (DODET et al, 2013 ;TORRES-FREYERMUTH et al, 2012). Cependant, la prise en compte du setup dans les modèles régionaux de surcote requiert une résolution spatiale métrique à déca-métrique, ce qui constitue un défi en termes de temps de calcul et explique probablement le peu d'études publiées à ce sujet.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Contribution du setup induit par les vagues dans la surcote associée à la tempête Klaus

Arnaud¹,

Bertin²

2014

XIIIèmes JNGCGC Dunkerque

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Résumé :La modélisation des surcotes de tempête et des submersions marines est un enjeu considérable pour la protection des biens et des personnes compte tenu du danger qu'elles représentent. Même si les mécanismes principaux sont bien connus, la contribution liée aux vagues n'est pas systématiquement prise en compte. Dans cette étude, nous réalisons une simulation rétrospective de la tempête Klaus qui a générée une surcote de 1,7 m dans le bassin d'Arcachon et de 1 m dans le port de Bayonne. Afin d'analyser les processus physiques expliquant ces observations, nous avons implémenté un système de modélisation numérique de surcote, réalisant le couplage entre un code de circulation hydrodynamique (SELFE) et un modèle spectral d'état de mer (WWMII). La comparaison entre les mesures disponibles et nos résultats numériques montre que le modèle est capable de reproduire les paramètres de vagues avec des erreurs normalisées de l'ordre de 10 à 15% et les surcotes avec des erreurs variant de 0,1 à 0,15 m. L'analyse des résultats numériques nous permet alors de quantifier la contribution du setup lié au vagues dans la surcote et la capacité de celui-ci à se propager en dehors des zones de déferlement, comme c'est le cas dans le bassin d'Arcachon ou dans le port de Bayonne.

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Wave‐current interactions in a wave‐dominated tidal inlet

Cited by 113 publications

References 49 publications

Hydrodynamics of a multiple tidal inlet system : Katama Bay, Martha�s Vineyard, MA

Hydrodynamics of a multiple tidal inlet system : Katama Bay, Martha�s Vineyard, MA

Morphological and sedimentological response of a mixed-energy barrier island tidal inlet to storm and fair-weather conditions

Contribution du setup induit par les vagues dans la surcote associée à la tempête Klaus

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