Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone

Svendsen, Ib A.

doi:10.1016/0378-3839(84)90028-0

Cited by 344 publications

(250 citation statements)

References 9 publications

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“…The main consideration is to dissipate energy when wave breaking is likely to occur. Svendsen (1984aSvendsen ( , 1984b proposed the roller concept, in the form of a volume of water carried shoreward with the wave. Local roller thickness and mean front slope of the breaker were used to quantify part of the local momentum deficit.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Lubin

Chanson

2016

Environ Fluid Mech

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The flow structure in the aerated region of the roller generated by breaking waves remains a great challenge to study, with large quantities of entrained air and turbulence interactions making it very difficult to investigate in details. A number of analogies were proposed between breaking waves in deep or shallow water, tidal bores and hydraulic jumps. Many numerical models used to simulate waves in the surf zone do not implicitly simulate the breaking process of the waves, but are required to parameterise the wave-breaking effects, thus relying on experimental data. Analogies are also assumed to quantify the roller dynamics and the energy dissipation. The scope of this paper is to review the different analogies proposed in the literature and to discuss current practices. A thorough survey is offered and a discussion is developed an aimed at improving the use of possible breaking proxies. The most recent data are revisited and scrutinised for the use of most advanced numerical models to educe the surf zone hydrodynamics. In particular, the roller dynamics and geometrical characteristics are discussed. An open discussion is proposed to explore the actual practices and propose perspectives based on the most appropriate analogy, namely the tidal bore.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Lubin

Chanson

2016

Environ Fluid Mech

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“…The roller model (Svendsen, 1984) is one of the well accepted concepts to understand and analyze the mechanism of energy dissipation due to wave breaking. It assumes the existence of water mass (=roller) separated from the normal wave motion described by the potential flow theory and propagating with the wave celerity, C. Therefore, the water mass is transported with much faster speed than the particle velocity, u.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Bore Propagation Speed at the Termination of Wave Breaking

Okamoto

Fortes

Basco

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Wave breaking is the most important event in nearshore hydrodynamics because of the energy exertion and mass transportation during the event drive all the nearshore phenomena, such as wave set-up/down, long shore current, and nearshore circulation. Wave celerity is a key parameter in wave breaking especially for the mass transportation, the energy dissipation during the wave breaking event, and the wave breaking index calculation, for example. There are many models to calculate the wave celerity during the breaking event (bore propagation speed) and it is well known that the bore propagation speed is faster than that is given by linear wave theory. But Okamoto et al. (2008) found the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking becomes much slower than the theoretical estimation when the termination of wave breaking occurs on inversely sloped bottom. In this paper, the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking is examined with the experimental data collected in a wave tank with simplified bar-trough beach settings. Comparisons with theoretical models are presented. Fourier analysis is performed to investigate the evolution of higher harmonics and synthesized time series, which is a simple summation of linear wave components, is constructed by using the obtained information to calculate the wave celerity during and after the wave breaking. Calculation result reveals that as the breaking wave approaches to the termination, the bore propagation speed decreases towards the value which can be explained by the existence of slowly and independently propagating higher harmonics.

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“…Drawing on the concept [Svendsen, 1984b] [1993]. Where the cross-shore depth and wave height distribution is known, an optimal fit of predicted against the measured cross-shore distribution of wave height are made/br the determination of D•.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Structure and modeling of surf zone turbulence due to wave breaking

Mocke¹

2001

J. Geophys. Res.

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Abstract. The turbulence structure under breaking waves in the surf zone is investigated through reference to experimental measurements and turbulence closure modeling. This includes a unique set of recent turbulence measurements that have extended into the roller area through the application of digital particle image velocimetry. Measurements highlight the surface roller as the primary agent for turbulence production, from where it is transported downward principally because of turbulent diffusion. Reflecting the breaker transition process, turbulence intensities are largest some distance shoreward of the breaker point where the roller is fully developed. The temporal variation of turbulence at a fixed point below the wave trough level is generally found to be minimal, supporting the present use of a time-independent turbulence closure model. Production of turbulent kinetic energy in the two-equation (k-e) model is presumed to occur in the vicinity. of the surface roller, from where it is transported downward through the water column by diffusion. This production, which is estimated from the rate of energy dissipation in the wave roller, is the principal input parameter for the k-e model. Froude scaled turbulence measurements from laboratory and field experiments are found to be satisfactorily predicted within the limits of the developed surf zone, with improved methods of incorporating wave breaker transition zone effects leading to further model refinement. The turbulence closure model is further shown to be effective in predicting time mean suspended sediment concentration and undertow velocity profiles in the surf zone.

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Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone

Cited by 344 publications

References 9 publications

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Bore Propagation Speed at the Termination of Wave Breaking

Structure and modeling of surf zone turbulence due to wave breaking

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