Wave Hindcast and Wave Characteristics at Shichiri-Mihama Ida Beach

Abstract

A hindcast wave model was built using the SWAN model to estimate wave fields in front of the Ida beach. To verify its accuracy, estimated hindcast results were compared with NOWPHAS wave data. From numerical results, it was found that the hindcast results were in good agreement in terms of the significant wave height. Although the mean wave period and direction had lower statistical quality than the significant wave height, their tendency was estimated reasonably well. Using hindcasted wave data, the characteristics of wave fields at the Ida beach and their relationship with Owase's buoy data were analyzed. The significant wave height at Ida was smaller than that at Owase. However, the significant wave height with 2 to 4 m in the east direction was similar between Ida and Owase. Finally, the relationship between wave fields and beach profile change under high wave conditions was analyzed using the hindcasted wave data and DEM data. From these results, it was shown that the hindcasted wave data at the Ida beach can be used to assess the characteristics of beach profile change more appropriately than Owase's buoy data.