This study has shown that it is possible to classify the various hair types found worldwide into eight main groups. The approach involves objective descriptors of hair shape, and is more reliable than traditional methods relying on categories such as curly, wavy, and kinky. Applied to worldwide human diversity, it avoids reference to the putative, unclear ethnic origin of subjects. Briefly, a straight hair type I is just that, and whether it originates from a Caucasian or an Asian subject is not at issue. The hair types defined here also more adequately reflect the large variation of hair shape diversity around the world, and may possibly help to trace past mixed origins amongst human subgroups.

Diversity in human hair growth, diameter, colour and shape. An in vivo study on young adults from 24 different ethnic groups observed in the five continentsBackground: Based on previous findings, from a worldwide study, classified the shapes of human hair into 8 major types, from straight to highly curly. This clearly extended the usual classification of hair into African, Asian or Caucasian types. However, determinations of hair growth parameters and hair density were excluded from such studies. Objectives: To measure and compare the hair growth profiles of young adults without alopecia living in the five continents. Materials & Methods: 2249 young adults (18-35 years, females and males) without alopecia, originating from 24 various human ethnic groups were included in the study. Total hair density, telogen percentage and growth rate on three different scalp areas were measured, using non-invasive validated techniques. Natural hair colour level, curliness and hair diameter were additionally recorded, when practically possible. Results: Diversity in hair growth parameters among the entire cohort was a key finding, with differences linked to scalp area, gender and geographic origin. Statistical approaches depicted African hair as having lower density and a slower growth rate. Asian hair showed a thicker diameter, with faster growth. Caucasian hair showed a high total hair density. Conclusion: On the one hand, this inter-continental study of hair growth parameters provides initial valuable base-line data on hair in young adults without alopecia, and on the other hand, further extends our knowledge of this unique human appendage, with some mosaic features, observed worldwide.

After measurement of individual growth rates, natural hair fibres from Asian and Caucasian subjects were analysed using scanning electron microscopy. In total, more than 1000 hairs were analysed. Measurements of diameter, medulla and interscale distance (average distance between two successive cuticle scales) show these parameters strongly correlated with hair growth rate. A thicker hair fibre corresponds to a faster growth rate, a shorter interscale distance and greater probability to have a medulla, and vice versa, a thin hair fibre shows slower growth rate, a larger interscale distance and a lower probability to have a medulla. Very interestingly, this finding appears to be unrelated to the ethnic origin of the subjects, suggesting a common characteristic of human hair, at least for the straight or semi-straight hair studied. From a practical viewpoint, this finding clearly suggests an alternative method for measuring hair growth rates, by measuring the interscale distance, which appears easier than using common laboratory equipments.

The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.