10—the Influence of Fibre Fatigue on the Pilling Cycle Part Ii: Fibre Entanglement and Pill Growth

Cooke, W. D.

doi:10.1080/00405008308631666

Cited by 26 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…Cooke and Goksoy [ 10] compared the results of the pilling box, Martindale, and Accelerator testers and reported that the Martindale and Accelerator gave reliable results, while the results of ICI's pilling box might be misleading. Similarly, in his earlier work, Cooke indicated that the ICI pilling box tester should be avoided, particularly for testing fabrics containing fibers that fatigue rapidly with normal use [9].…”

Section: Literature Surveymentioning

confidence: 94%

“…Their findings indicated that fabrics with a greater percentage of cotton appeal more to customers with regard to their pilling resistance compared to polyester blends. Cooke, on the other hand, reported that washing increases the pilling tendency of fabrics, since it creates a hairy surface on the fabrics [9]. Bresee et al [6] reported that laundering does not increase.…”

Section: Literature Surveymentioning

confidence: 99%

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Fabric Pilling Performance and Sensitivity of Several Pilling Testers

Göktepe

2002

Textile Research Journal

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The pilling behavior of polyester/viscose, polyester/viscose/Lycra®, and %100 cotton fabrics, is investigated in both normal and wet conditions. The experimental results show that the pilling tendency of fabrics in the wet state is directly related to the constituent fiber tenacity in the wet state. We also test three different pilling testers, the Martindale wear & pilling, the ICI pilling box, and the pilling drum, using both gray and finished fabric samples to investigate the sensitivity of different testers to various fabric parameters. In the gray state, the pilling box is sensitive to changes in the fiber blend ratio, weave type, and fabric stretch direction (mono or bi-stretch). The pilling drum exhibits a similar tendency, except that it is not sensitive to weave type. However, Martindale test results indicate that this apparatus is sensitive only to the yarn count and stretch direction of fabrics with spandex filaments. In the finished state, the picture changes dramatically, because the pilling box is sensitive to the yarn count, yarn twist, and stretch direction of fabrics with Lycra. The pilling drum again exhibits a similar tendency, except for weave type. The martindale, on the other hand, is sensitive to the yarn count, yam twist, and stretch direction of fabrics with Lycra. Generally, the Martindale gives worse pilling grades than the pilling box and pilling drum. Since the test results show that each tester has a different sensitivity for different factors, we recommend using at least two different testers to obtain reliable results, one of these being the Martindale while the other might be either the pilling box or drum.

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Section: Literature Surveymentioning

confidence: 94%

Section: Literature Surveymentioning

confidence: 99%

Fabric Pilling Performance and Sensitivity of Several Pilling Testers

Göktepe

2002

Textile Research Journal

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“…Cooke (1963Cooke ( , 1964 showed that pilling was an intermittent process. Entanglement of free fibre ends leads to a small pill.…”

Section: Fabric Modellingmentioning

confidence: 98%

Impressions of a Career on the Hard Shoulder of Textile Software: the Route to Modelling

Hearle

2010

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

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The last 65 years have seen a development of modelling of the structural mechanics of textiles at the same time as computation moved from primitive calculations to powerful software and hardware. The development of means of access to computing is described. Early work could only deal with numerical solutions at the end of analyses of simple, general models. Now it is possible to follow individual fibre elements in space and time. The paper reviews topics covered by myself and my associates in the University of Manchester and elsewhere after my retirement: fibre fine structure; yarn mechanics; fabric mechanics; product mechanics; and rope modeling. The final part of the paper discusses modeling for the 21st century, including the problem of the “virtual catwalk” and the development of software for 3D fabrics used in composites. In contrast to aesthetic design where computer aided design (CAD) has become the common mode, the industry has not taken to modeling for technical textiles. This means that there is a lack of creative interchange between academia and industry. CAD is bound to come, but it is not possible to say when and how.

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“…fiber torsional fatigue. [19][20][21] Thus, a priori, there are no mathematical or physical reasons or limitation of reaction kinetics for predicting which of these two rate constants will be larger than the other.…”

Section: Identification Of Conti and Tassinari's Implicit Assumptionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The kinetic model of pilling revisited

Naylor

Aïssani

Ramsay

2010

Textile Research Journal

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The current paper revisits the simplified two step kinetic model of pilling and identifies an implicit assumption made by previous workers in the application of the model to experimental data. Relaxing this assumption potentially allows a paradigm shift in the understanding of the pilling process with quite different interpretations and conclusions drawn from the analysis of experimental pilling data. In the case of wool knitwear, the original implicit assumption is tested experimentally and found to be invalid. A reanalysis of the pilling behavior of wool knitwear reveals new insights into the process. First, the mass of fiber associated with pilling is approximately twenty times larger than previously thought and pilling is the primary mechanism associated with fiber loss during the pilling test, compared to Williams’ conclusion that pilling accounted for only approximately 4% of the mass loss. Secondly, the non-pillable fiber loss fraction is both relatively small and is limited to the early stages of the pilling test, indicative of this being associated with a relatively small percentage of fiber that is not securely held in the structure (e.g. perhaps predominately a short fiber fraction). More generally, this reinterpretation significantly changes the relative importance of the two conceptual steps in the pilling process and so gives new insights regarding likely beneficial approaches for managing pilling.

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10—the Influence of Fibre Fatigue on the Pilling Cycle Part Ii: Fibre Entanglement and Pill Growth

Cited by 26 publications

References 4 publications

Fabric Pilling Performance and Sensitivity of Several Pilling Testers

Fabric Pilling Performance and Sensitivity of Several Pilling Testers

Impressions of a Career on the Hard Shoulder of Textile Software: the Route to Modelling

The kinetic model of pilling revisited

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