21—the Measurement of Fabric Drape

Cusick, G. E.

doi:10.1080/09636416808629935

Cited by 14 publications

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“…a 12 cm specimen may be used for a very limp fabric if its DC% on a 15 cm radius specimen is smaller than 30%. In Cusick's modified formula, the drape coefficient ( DC~Io ) is defined as the percentage of the paper weight from the drape shadow W, to the paper weight of the full specimen W, ( 6 ] . The formula is shown in dimensionless quantities in Equation 1:…”

Section: Instruments and Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams

Chung

1998

Textile Research Journal

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Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, textile researchers studied this attribute in order to evaluate the drape quality and improve the drape appearance of garments. However, fabric drape can be more realistically investigated by considering seams. At present, research in this area is very limited. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using Cusick's drapemeter. Simple plain and twill woven fabrics with various fiber contents of cotton, linen, silk, wool, and polyester are given radial and circular seams. The effects of seam allowance and seam position are investigated experimentally. Drape behavior is determined and compared in terms of drape coefficient, node analysis, and drape profile. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can improve apparel design and fabric end-use applications. Moreover, it contributes to garment drape prediction for the clothing CAD system. Drape describes the ability of a textile material to orient itself into folds in more than one plane under its own weight. This unique characteristic offers a sense of fullness and a graceful appearance, which distinguish textiles from other materials such as paper or polymer films. Practically, drape determines apparel design and influences fabric quality for specific enduses. Thus, studies of drape have appeared in the literature for years.Three-dimensional studies of drape were first begun by Chu [ 1 ] , when he established a measuring method for fabric drape using the FRL drapemeter. Chu quantified the drapeability of a fabric into a dimensionless value he called a &dquo;drape coefficient,&dquo; which is defined as the percent of the area from an angular ring of fabric covered by a vertical projection of the draped fabric. The apparatus was further studied by Kaswell [ 7 and later revised by Chu [ 2,3 ] . Finally, Cusick [ 6 investigated the experimental method again by using a parallel light source that reflects the drape shadow of a circular specimen from a hanging disc into a piece of ring paper. He also modified the calibration of Chu's s drape coefficient in terms of the paper-weighing method. In recent years, the emphasis has been on improving the efficiency and accuracy of Cusick's drapemeter by using digital readouts of drape shadows from photovoltaic cells [ 4 ] , as well as by computerized image analysis [ 9 ] .Obviously, the study of fabric drape is served by understanding and evaluating the final garment appearance, but fabrics must be sewn to form garments, and seaming is believed to affect garment appearance significantly. A plain seam, the most typical seam found extensively in apparel, is the simplest type in which a single row of lockstitches joins two pieces of fabrics together. Thus, investigating the effect of a plain seam on fabric drape has a significant value for both the textile and clothing industries. ' Suda and Nagasaka 18 ] investigated fabric drape related to the effect of seams on a skirt. In their wo...

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Section: Instruments and Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams

Chung

1998

Textile Research Journal

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“…One other parameter easily measured is the number of nodes fonned as the fabric drapes (Cusick, 1968). Flexible fabrics will drape down by buckling into more folds than stiff fabrics.…”

Section: Bending Length Drape Coefficient and Drape Appearancementioning

confidence: 99%

A Review on the Study of Fabric Drape Part I --- Evaluation Methods and Empirical Study

1997

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

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If you would like to write for this, or any other Emerald publication, then please use our Emerald for Authors service information about how to choose which publication to write for and submission guidelines are available for all. Please visit www.emeraldinsight.com/authors for more information. About Emerald www.emeraldinsight.comEmerald is a global publisher linking research and practice to the benefit of society. The company manages a portfolio of more than 290 journals and over 2,350 books and book series volumes, as well as providing an extensive range of online products and additional customer resources and services.Emerald is both COUNTER 4 and TRANSFER compliant. The organization is a partner of the Committee on Publication Ethics (COPE) and also works with Portico and the LOCKSS initiative for digital archive preservation.

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“…Fabric drape behaviour has been widely studied both theoretically and experimentally (Breen et al, 1994;Chen & Govindraj, 1995;Chen & Govindraj, 1996;Chu et al, 1950;Chu et al, 1960;Cusick, 1968;Hearle et al, 1969;Peirce, 1930 (Matsudaira & Yang, 1997;, 1999, 2000, 2001, and much progress has been made, especially in measuring the dynamic drapability of fabrics (Lin et al, 2008;Shyr et al, 2007).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 97%

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

Tandon¹,

Matsudaira

2010

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

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A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

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21—the Measurement of Fabric Drape

Cited by 14 publications

References 0 publications

Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams

Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams

A Review on the Study of Fabric Drape Part I --- Evaluation Methods and Empirical Study

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

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