9—the Influence of Resistance to Compression on the Processing Performance of Superfine Wools Part I: Topmaking

Kurdo, K. O. A.; Whiteley, K. J.; Smith, L. J.

doi:10.1080/00405008608658398

Cited by 5 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 12 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…The ratio of the Hauteur of the experimental cashmere to the MFD of the top, was 2.49 mm/ μ m compared with the mean values obtained for international cashmere tops of 2.37 mm/ μ m and Certo's (2001) recent report on a modern combing machine of 2.62 mm/ μ m. The improvements in lubrication may explain the increase in the ratio of Hauteur/MFD of wool reported over the past 15 years. In fine wool tops processed by Kurdo et al (1986) this ratio averaged to 2.82 mm/ μ m and with commercial fine wool tops examined by McGregor (2001) the mean (±SD) ratio of Hauteur/MFD was 3.41 (0.22) mm/ μ m (range 3.13‐3.69 mm/ μ m). Use of this mean and upper range ratio indicates that the potential Hauteur for Australian 16.6 μ m cashmere is 56‐61 mm.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 78%

“…The improvements in lubrication may explain the increase in the ratio of Hauteur/MFD of wool reported over the past 15 years. In fine wool tops processed by Kurdo et al (1986) this ratio averaged to 2.82 mm/mm and with commercial fine wool tops examined by McGregor (2001) the mean (^SD) ratio of Hauteur/MFD was 3.41 (0.22) mm/mm (range 3.13-3.69 mm/mm). Use of this mean and upper range ratio indicates that the potential Hauteur for Australian 16.6mm cashmere is 56-61 mm.…”

Section: Cashmere Processingmentioning

confidence: 83%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultrafine wool worsted blend fabrics

McGregor¹,

Postle

2004

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool. 1.Introduction Cashmere is a rare exotic animal fibre used to produce soft luxurious apparel. It is expensive to purchase, and needs specialist processing, details of which are kept as tightly guarded secrets. Given the lack of technical information available on the dehairing, worsted processing and quality of cashmere textiles, a series of experiments have been completed (McGregor, 2001). This report is part of that larger study which compared the quality and processing of Australian cashmere into tops and the blending and knitted fabric properties of low fibre curvature and high fibre curvature ultrafine wool when blended with Australian cashmere. Forte´ Cashmere Company believed that Australian cashmere had the length of Mongolian cashmere (Hopkins, 1987), a source often used for cashmere top making, but provided no data. The Italian processor Nesti (1989) believed that Australia had the potential to produce fine cashmere of 100mm length, capable of producing a top with a Hauteur of 55 mm. Such a product had not been seen, but no evidence was provided to support his view. Within few years, according to Levinge (1993), companies had developed the ability to produce 50mm Chinese top that matched the performance of Australian cashmere. Despite these views, no commercial processing of Australian worsted cashmere yarn has occurred other than the processing of knitwear samples by Dawson International (Smith, 1987, 1992) and sampling trials by Forte´ and their customers (Anonymous, 1991). In 1992, Smith said that the worsted garments made from 17.5mm Australasian cashmere displayed...

show abstract

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 78%

Section: Cashmere Processingmentioning

confidence: 83%

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultrafine wool worsted blend fabrics

McGregor¹,

Postle

2004

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The wool tops in this experiment had similar Hauteur (47.0 to 50.5 mm) compared to those produced with worsted processing equipment at the Australian Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) where tops of 18.2 to 19.3 μm obtained Hauteur of 50.0 to 54.3 mm [8] and tops of 14.5 to 16.7 μm wool had Hauteur of 49.8 to 55.5 mm [22].…”

Section: Comparison Of Wool and Cashmere Topsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…There is limited information on the effects of wool fiber curvature on the properties of textile materials, especially knitwear. Some data on processing performance of low crimp wool has been published [8][9][10][11][12] yielding the result that low crimp/low curvature superfine wool produces a longer top as a consequence of less fiber entanglement during processing with reduced noil and increased yield of tops. 1 Research on worsted yarn and fabric properties has been reported together with the yarn processing performance of low crimp fine wools (e.g.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Worsted Cashmere Top and Yarns Blended with Low or High Curvature Superfine Merino Wool

McGregor¹,

Postle

2007

Textile Research Journal

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere on blends with superfine wools on the quality of tops, rovings, and worsted spun yarns. We also investigated the relative performance of soft, low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended yarns. The results indicate both the cashmere blend ratio and fiber curvature/crimp of wool affected processing requirements and the attributes of worsted pure and blended tops, rovings, and yarns. Adding wool to cashmere improved the processing of cashmere roving and reduced yarn faults. Mean fiber curvature was a good predictor of yarn hairiness and yarn tenacity.

show abstract

“…The variation in raw wool is caused by complicated interactions of genetical and environmental factors (Ryder & Stephenson, 1968). The importance of raw wool characteristics on price, processing stages and end-products is well known and reviewed (Ince, 1978;Nasrullah, 1983;Kurdo, 1985 andRobards, 1999).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Evaluation of Karadi Sheep Fleeces

Aziz

Hama

2008

Egyptian Journal of Agricultural Sciences

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

One hundred and seventy three Karadi sheep (139 ewes & 34 rams) aged 1.5 to ≥ 5.5 years kept on three private flocks were used to study the effect of flock, sex, age and ewe status on body weight and wool physical traits and the relationships among them. Skin samples were also obtained for histological study. The overall mean of follicle density, S:P ratio, body weight, greasy fleece weight, clean wool%, staple length, fiber length, fiber diameter, crimps, medullated fibers, outercoat fibers, undercoat fibers and kemp fibers were respectively, 17.6/mm 2 , 3.2, 58.1kg, 1.8kg, 78.4%, 9.1cm, 12.8cm, 30.8μm, 1.14 crimps/cm, 4.2%, 72.2%, 19.7% and 8.2%. Furthermore, it was noticed that the grease content in greasy wool was 4.2 %. Statistical analysis revealed a significant effect of flock on most wool physical traits. Males were significantly heavier than females and had heavier greasy fleece weight, longer lengths and higher outercoat fibers but lower undercoat fibers. Age affects body weight, greasy fleece weight, lengths, fiber diameter and kemp fibers and ewe status affect body weight, clean wool percentage, lengths and crimps significantly. The correlations among Karadi wool traits bring an attention to the possible improvement of this type of fleece by selection.

show abstract

9—the Influence of Resistance to Compression on the Processing Performance of Superfine Wools Part I: Topmaking

Cited by 5 publications

References 12 publications

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultrafine wool worsted blend fabrics

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultrafine wool worsted blend fabrics

Worsted Cashmere Top and Yarns Blended with Low or High Curvature Superfine Merino Wool

An Evaluation of Karadi Sheep Fleeces

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About