A Chronology-Based Wave Input Reduction Technique for Simulations of Long-Term Coastal Morphological Changes: An Application to the Beach of Mastichari, Kos Island, Greece

Abstract

The main objective of the present paper is to achieve the simulation of the long-term (e.g., annual) morphological evolution (bathymetry and shoreline) of a coastal area (Mastichari beach, Greece) due to wind-generated waves in an accurate and cost-effective way. For this purpose, wave climate schematization techniques are adopted in order to reduce the computational effort without losing or distorting the crucial information. Referring to the current practice, the wave chronology is not considered in detail in these acceleration techniques, and therefore, sea bottom and shoreline evolution are not estimated as a function of time. To fill this gap, a novel and easy-to-use chronology-based wave input reduction method is developed to produce representative wave time series of different intensities and durations. The performance of all the applied techniques in the present study is evaluated, and a comparative analysis is conducted. It is shown that the new chronology-based wave input reduction method can achieve a model run-time reduction of about 70%, while at the same time, it provides satisfactorily accurate results. In general, this research could be useful for coastal engineering studies and coastal zone monitoring, and thus, it would be a valuable tool for coastal engineers and marine scientists.

Modelling of Sediment Transport and Deposition in Generating River-Mouth Closure: Oum-Errabia River, Morocco

“…For instance, in coastal segments characterized by a mild wave climate and where morphological changes are primarily driven by episodic major storms or areas with river mouths, the proposed methods are not readily applicable. In such regions, the use of a hybrid approach is recommended [34]. The hybrid approach adopted in our case involves utilizing the chronology-based wave/tide/wind input technique to enhance the accuracy of the modelling.…”

Integrated Modeling of Coastal Processes Driven by an Advanced Mild Slope Wave Model

“…The prediction of coastal morphodynamics at a time span of years to decades [1][2][3][4][5][6], induced by the combined effect of waves and currents, has been at the forefront of coastal engineering research for several decades, with the ultimate goal to thoroughly investigate the complex nearshore processes and mitigate erosion. To combat the adverse effects of erosion, coastal protection works (e.g., breakwaters, groins, and seawalls) have been constructed by engineers focusing predominantly on reducing the incident wave energy.…”