A Colorful History: The Evolution of Indigoids

Gaboriaud‐Kolar, Nicolas; Nam, Sangkil; Skaltsounis, Alexios‐Léandros

doi:10.1007/978-3-319-04900-7_2

Cited by 21 publications

(17 citation statements)

References 177 publications

(294 reference statements)

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“…Natural indigo is considered one of the oldest dyestuffs known to humanity, and one of the most commonly used natural dyestuffs worldwide, particularly in Egypt, India, China, and Africa [ 1 , 2 ]. It is extracted from indigo-yielding plant species.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In terms of dyeing, natural indigo has many advantages over synthetic indigo. For example, synthetic indigo contains only residual chemical impurities apart from the indigo component, whereas natural indigo is a mixture containing 7–45% indigo, in addition to indirubin, dark brown indigo, and yellow indigo [ 1 , 19 ]. These components give fabrics dyed with natural indigo a richer color and better colorfastness than fabrics dyed with synthetic indigo [ 1 , 20 , 21 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Quality blues: traditional knowledge used for natural indigo identification in southern China

Shi

Zhang

Wang

et al. 2021

J Ethnobiology Ethnomedicine

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Background As one of the oldest traditional dyes, people worldwide have used natural indigo for centuries. Local people have unique knowledge about indigo identification, which is crucial for indigo quality control and determining the dyeing effects. However, such traditional knowledge is rarely documented and explained. Therefore, the aims of this study were to document and assess the traditional knowledge used by local people when identifying natural indigo paste as well as quantitatively explore the characteristics and material basis of such traditional knowledge. Method Three field surveys were conducted between 2019 and 2020. A total of 283 traditional indigo-paste artisans were interviewed in Guizhou, Yunnan, and Fujian Provinces. The frequency of citation, mention index, and fidelity level of each indigo-paste quality criterion were calculated to determine the most commonly used, recognized, and important quality criteria. To explore the characteristics and material basis of the traditional knowledge, we analyzed 21 indigo-paste samples using high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC-DAD), pH, and particle size analyses. Results Local people possess unique knowledge to identify natural indigo. Based on this knowledge accumulated over thousands of years, four criteria (color, taste, touch, and dyeing ability) were chosen by local people, and using these criteria, nature indigo was divided into five quality grades. The best quality indigo paste was judged according to the following folk criteria: dark blue in color with a purple-red luster; smooth and difficult to wipe off; having a sweet, bitter or spicy taste; and easy cloth dyeing. Additionally, the higher the contents of indigo and indirubin—especially indirubin—the better is the quality of the indigo paste. Within the pH range of 9–12, high-quality indigo-paste was more acidic. There was no significant relationship between particle size and quality. Conclusion The ancient methods used by local people for identifying natural indigo are comprehensive and unique. By documenting the various folk quality criteria and conducting quantitative analyses, this study revealed the importance of indirubin and pH for assessing the quality of indigo paste. These findings differ from existing quality standards for synthetic indigo. Amid rapid modernization, traditional knowledge remains invaluable as a world heritage of humanity that warrants preservation.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Quality blues: traditional knowledge used for natural indigo identification in southern China

Shi

Zhang

Wang

et al. 2021

J Ethnobiology Ethnomedicine

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“…Since then, it is often encountered in meiotic processes of different plant species in tracing basic chromosome numbers and the polyploid nature of the species (Kempanna and Riley 1964, Gupta and Roy 1973, Agarwal 1983, Sengupta and Datta 2003, Mukherjee and Datta 2005, Iqbal and Datta 2007, Das et al 2009, Bhattacharya and Datta 2010, Mandal and Datta 2011, Halder et al 2012, Kumar and Singhal 2013. The present investigation describes meiotic configurations documenting secondary chromosome association in Indigofera tinctoria L. (Family: Fabaceae), an annual, biennial, or perennial shrub, based on the climate under which it is grown (Gaboriaud- Kolar et al 2014). The species possesses immense therapeutic significance (root/leaves/stem) in traditional systems of medicine (Saraswathi et al 2012), apart from its commercial importance (leaves) as a dye-yielding plant (Siva 2007).…”

mentioning

confidence: 85%

Meiotic Configurations and Secondary Chromosome Associations in <i>Indigofera tinctoria</i> L. (Family: Fabaceae)

Ghosh

Datta

Mandal³

et al. 2016

CYTOLOGIA

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Summary Meiotic analysis performed in Indigofera tinctoria L. (Family: Fabaceae) reveals n=8 chromosomes with an average chromosomal association of 7.79II+0.44I at metaphase I (MI). Predominance of 8II formation (87.86%) has been noted. The bivalents form rods (mean per cell -rod: 5.88 0.21; ring: 1.87 0.19; association: 7.75II+0.50I) mostly at diplotene with a mean chiasma of 9.62 0.21 per cell. Anaphase I cells (94.12%) are mostly cytologically balanced (8/8) with an average pollen fertility of 93.60%. A persistent feature (89.39%) in MI cells has been the presence of secondary association of chromosomes and the chromosomes assort themselves into variable groups of two (6.04%), three (7.04%), four (25.50%), five (56.71%), six (4.02%) and seven (0.67%). Out of 25 different associations studied among the group classes, 3II(1)+2II(1)+1II(3) under the five group class (25.83%) was the most frequent. Statistical analysis of cytological data reveals that the probable basic chromosome number in the species is x=5, suggesting polyploid lineage.

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“…Indigoid dyes . These are named after indigo (Figure 3c) obtained from the plant Indigofera tinctori a [179]. One or more positions on each benzene ring could bear different substituents in both natural and synthetic indigoids.…”

Section: Textile Dyesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Immobilized Lignin Peroxidase-Like Metalloporphyrins as Reusable Catalysts in Oxidative Bleaching of Industrial Dyes

et al. 2016

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Synthetic and bioinspired metalloporphyrins are a class of redox-active catalysts able to emulate several enzymes such as cytochromes P450, ligninolytic peroxidases, and peroxygenases. Their ability to perform oxidation and degradation of recalcitrant compounds, including aliphatic hydrocarbons, phenolic and non-phenolic aromatic compounds, sulfides, and nitroso-compounds, has been deeply investigated. Such a broad substrate specificity has suggested their use also in the bleaching of textile plant wastewaters. In fact, industrial dyes belong to very different chemical classes, being their effective and inexpensive oxidation an important challenge from both economic and environmental perspective. Accordingly, we review here the most widespread synthetic metalloporphyrins, and the most promising formulations for large-scale applications. In particular, we focus on the most convenient approaches for immobilization to conceive economical affordable processes. Then, the molecular routes of catalysis and the reported substrate specificity on the treatment of the most diffused textile dyes are encompassed, including the use of redox mediators and the comparison with the most common biological and enzymatic alternative, in order to depict an updated picture of a very promising field for large-scale applications.

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A Colorful History: The Evolution of Indigoids

Cited by 21 publications

References 177 publications

Quality blues: traditional knowledge used for natural indigo identification in southern China

Quality blues: traditional knowledge used for natural indigo identification in southern China

Meiotic Configurations and Secondary Chromosome Associations in <i>Indigofera tinctoria</i> L. (Family: Fabaceae)

Immobilized Lignin Peroxidase-Like Metalloporphyrins as Reusable Catalysts in Oxidative Bleaching of Industrial Dyes

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