A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance

Abstract

To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.

Effects of Lipids and Emulsifiers on the Physicochemical and Sensory Properties of Cosmetic Emulsions Containing Vitamin E

“…Comparison of the rheograms of O/W emulsions containing different emulsifier systems and different oils but the same aqueous phase revealed that the shape of the obtained flow curves and hysteresis loops was similar (data not shown). Other authors [18] reported that emulsion flow behavior mostly depends on the rheological properties of continual phase rather than on the microstructure of the emulsion system (disperse phase). In our study, no relationship was observed between emulsion thixotropic behavior and emulsion composition.…”

“…Therefore, many studies have been focused on sensory evaluations of cosmetics to fulfill consumers' needs by formulating products that offer both adequate efficacy and aesthetic characteristics [15][16][17]. Recently, Lukic et al [18], evaluating the effects of emollients on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance of cosmetic O/W emulsions, reported that the oily phase composition affected all investigated characteristics, evidencing that the replacement of only one oil could make a significant change.…”

The Influence of Thickeners on the Rheological and Sensory Properties of Cosmetic Lotions

“…No wonder that sensory analysis dominates in the process of their production (see Lukic et al [2]). This methodology of sensory evaluation of cosmetic products follows three principal points: suitable choice of evaluated variables, suitable choice of the corresponding absolute or universal scales, and suitable choice of a professional panel (expensive).…”

“…Danov [8] proposed an analytical expression for the viscosity of dilute emulsions in the presence of emulsifiers as already mentioned above. Lukic et al [2] studied four water-in-oil creams differing in only one emollient component. The samples were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization.…”

Formulations with green clay for acne-prone skin: evaluation of rheology and sensory

“…Sensory evaluation is used to measure, analyze and interpret the characteristics of products according to the perception of the four senses (sight, smell, taste and touch). Although initially this analysis was used for food and beverages, sensory evaluation is widely applicable in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and toiletries, such as toothpaste, shampoo, etc [5][6][7][8][9] . The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic product is of paramount importance, as it affects the acceptance of the product by the consumer and consequently its potential for trade 6 .…”