A Field Study of Waves in the Surf Zone

Hotta, Shintaro; Mizuguchi, Masaru

doi:10.1080/05785634.1980.11924299

Cited by 26 publications

(11 citation statements)

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“…The field measurements by Hotta and Mizuguchi (1980) and the laboratory experiments by Baldock et al (1998) have provided evidence of this feature. Although Thornton and Guza (1983) employed the Rayleigh distribution for modeling wave height transformation throughout the surf zone, an examination of their field data indicates a distribution narrower than the Rayleigh in the middle part of the surf zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 86%

“…The first data set was reported by Hotta and Mizuguchi (1980), who took motion pictures of the water surface along a linear array of about 60 poles at a spacing of 2 m each. They fixed eleven synchronized 16 mm motion picture cameras on a pier at the Ajigaura Coast in Ibaragi Prefecture, Japan, to command good views of the wave motions.…”

Section: Wave Transformation Behind Elliptical Shoalmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In fact, Fig. 13 of the paper by Hotta and Mizuguchi (1980) shows that the wave height at x = 25 m has a distribution with a mode around H = 0.7H mean and a shape more skewed than the Rayleigh.…”

Section: Wave Transformation Behind Elliptical Shoalmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A 2-D Random Wave Transformation Model with Gradational Breaker Index

Goda

2004

Coastal Engineering Journal

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Random wave transformations with breaking in shallow water of 2-D bathymetry are computed with the parabolic equation. A new system of gradational breaker index, the value of which gradually decreases as the level of wave height within a wave group is lowered, is introduced to simulate gradual shape variations of wave height distribution in the surf zone. Wave attenuation in the trough area of a barred beach is treated with a secondary gradational breaker index, which is applied for locations in water of constant or increasing depth. Its empirical coefficients are assigned values different from those in water of decreasing depth. The wave attenuation factor due to bottom friction is formulated by evaluating the rate of energy dissipation by shear stress along the sea bottom. Computation is made for directional spectral components with multiple levels of wave heights under the Rayleigh distribution, and the results are synthesized for the calculation of wave height distributions. The new computational scheme succeeds in reproducing the random wave breaking diagrams by Goda (1975), and shows good agreements with several experimental results on wave transformations over horizontal shelves, barred beaches, and an elliptical shoal. The scheme also yields wave height predictions in good agreement with several field measurements across the surf zone.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 86%

Section: Wave Transformation Behind Elliptical Shoalmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A 2-D Random Wave Transformation Model with Gradational Breaker Index

Goda

2004

Coastal Engineering Journal

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“…Therefore, waves lower than 6 cm in height were ignored in analysis (see Hotta and Mizuguchi, 1980). Figure 7 shows the distributions of wave height and period defined by zero-down crossing method for raw, adjusted, and filtered data at St. 1, St. 4, and the swash oscillation.…”

Section: Wave Height and Period Distributionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Run-Up on a Natural Beach

Takezawa

Mizuguchi

Hotta

et al. 1988

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The swash oscillation, waves and water particle velocity in the surf zone were measured by using 16 mm memo-motion cameras and electromagnetic current meters. It was inferred that incident waves form two-dimensional standing waves with the anti-node in the swash slope. Separation of the incident waves and reflected waves was attempted with good results using small amplitude long wave theory. Reflection coefficient of individual waves ranged between 0.3 and 1.0. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods in the swash oscillation exhibited different distribution from that in and outside the surf zone. This indicates that simple application of wave to wave transformation model fails in the swash zone.

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“…Figure 5 is an example of wave height variations on a beach, which were measured by Hotta and Mizuguchi. 30) They analyzed the time records of surface profiles at nearly 120 locations across the beach, which were converted from the motionpicture films taken with 12 cameras set on a nearby pier at Ajigaura Beach, Ibaraki Prefecture. The representative wave heights of H 1=10 , H 1=3 and H rms are shown with symbols in the upper part and the beach profile is depicted in the lower part.…”

Section: No 9] Overview Of Random Wave Applications In Coastal Enginmentioning

confidence: 99%

Overview on the applications of random wave concept in coastal engineering

Goda

2008

Proc. Jpn. Acad., Ser. B

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When ''coastal engineering'' was recognized as a new discipline in 1950, the significant wave concept was the basic tool in dealing with wave actions on beach and structures. Description of sea waves as the random process with spectral and statistical analysis was gradually introduced in various engineering problems in coastal engineering through the 1970s and 1980s. Nowadays the random wave concept plays the central role in engineering manuals for maritime structure designs. The present paper overviews the historical development of random wave concept and its applications in coastal engineering.

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A Field Study of Waves in the Surf Zone

Cited by 26 publications

References 0 publications

A 2-D Random Wave Transformation Model with Gradational Breaker Index

A 2-D Random Wave Transformation Model with Gradational Breaker Index

Wave Run-Up on a Natural Beach

Overview on the applications of random wave concept in coastal engineering

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