A laboratory experiment of rip currents between the ends of breaking wave crests

Choi, Junwoo; Roh, Min

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103812

Cited by 12 publications

(13 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…In a recent study, J. Choi and Roh (2021) also confirmed the formation of transient rip currents in the node regions of a wavefield (Dalrymple, 1975). While these transient rip currents generated by short-crested waves with or without the presence of coherent waves can happen in shorter time scales, the focus of this study is on the perfectly coherent waves and resulting stationary rip currents.…”

supporting

confidence: 54%

“…(2003), the stronger longshore currents have been observed to suppress the rip currents and result in a more uniform mean current field, as demonstrated in Figure 10. Furthermore, for a normally incident case using the default directional wavemaker of FUNWAVE TVD, all wave components in a discretized wave energy spectrum are symmetric and thus, one would expect a similar mean current field of the case with two identical regular waves forming a rip current at the middle of the domain as in J. Choi and Roh (2021). However, the addition of the random phases to the wave components displaces the nodal and anti‐nodal regions and consequently, moves the stationary rip current to new random locations, further complicating the analyses of nearshore hydrodynamics in presence of coherent waves.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…at the middle of the domain as in J. Choi and Roh (2021). However, the addition of the random phases to the wave components displaces the nodal and anti-nodal regions and consequently, moves the stationary rip current to new random locations, further complicating the analyses of nearshore hydrodynamics in presence of coherent waves.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

et al. 2021

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Since Young's (1802) double-slit experiment with optical waves, wave coherence has been studied in various scientific fields including quantum mechanics and engineering. Wave coherence happens when two intersecting waves have identical wave frequency, waveform, and constant phase difference and result in a stationary wave interference in the wavefield. Despite the importance of the subject in various scientific fields, it has not been studied broadly for the water waves. In one of the earliest studies of coherent waves, Dalrymple (1975) investigated the longshore variation of the mean water level as well as the wave height and wave-induced circulation due to the existence of intersecting waves with equal frequencies. He showed that alongshore variation of wave height due to the presence of two coherent waves results in nodal and anti-nodal points alongshore, and rip currents are formed at nodal lines with zero wave height. Following his work, Z. Wei and Dalrymple (2017) carried out numerical experiments with the Lagrangian-based smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH) model using two intersecting waves of the same period and confirmed the

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confidence: 54%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 98%

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Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

et al. 2021

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“…Nonetheless, only a very few examples can be found where LSPIV is used for the analysis of waves. Choi and Roh (2021) recently proposed an experimental setup for the analysis of transient cross see rip currents, where surface flow velocities were captured via LSPIV (using seeding). Moreover, the pioneering work of Holland et al (2001) already suggested the applicability of LSPIV for the analysis of swash zone hydrodynamics in coastal areas two decades ago.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

LSPIV analysis of ship-induced wave wash

Fleit

Baranya

2022

Exp Fluids

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Ship-induced wave wash affects the hydromorphological and ecological state of rivers through various mechanisms. The direct proximity of the riverbank is usually the most exposed, as the hydrodynamic stresses are the highest in these shallow water areas. Contrary to the steady and almost still, natural flow conditions (i.e., no waves of anthropogenic source), shoaling and breaking of ship waves increase the hydrodynamic stresses by orders of magnitudes, having notable ecological consequences, and resulting in bank erosion as well. Due to the shallow water depths and temporary drying, conventional measurement techniques are no longer applicable in these areas. In this study, large-scale particle image velocimetry (LSPIV) is used to quantify the prevailing flow conditions. In the absence of ground truth data in the wave breaking region, a high-resolution computational fluid dynamics model—verified with field pressure and acoustic Doppler velocimetry data—is used for the cross-validation of the LSPIV results. The results underline the applicability of LSPIV for the hydrodynamic analysis of wave velocities in this special riverine swash zone, which is of key importance from the aspect of ecology and bank erosion as well. Graphical abstract

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“…The vorticity generation due to the ends of wave crests and its resultant rip current have been studied (Johnson and Pattiaratchi, 2006;Clark et al, 2012;Choi et al, 2015;Peregrine, 1998;Postacchini et al, 2014). Recently, a laboratory experiment was conducted to observe rip currents formed between the ends of breaking wave crests (Choi and Roh, 2020) by using the wave generation method of pseudo intersecting wave trains. In this method, regular waves were generated by running two parts of wave maker out of phase.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Preliminary Experiment of Nearshore Current Generated Due to Transverse Phase Differences

Choi¹

2020

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The vorticity generation due to the ends of wave crests and its resultant rip current have been studied (Johnson and Pattiaratchi, 2006; Clark et al., 2012; Choi et al., 2015; Peregrine, 1998; Postacchini et al., 2014). Recently, a laboratory experiment was conducted to observe rip currents formed between the ends of breaking wave crests (Choi and Roh, 2020) by using the wave generation method of pseudo intersecting wave trains. In this method, regular waves were generated by running two parts of wave maker out of phase. Their pseudo intersecting wave trains was compared with the intersecting wave trains generated by regular waves having the same wave period and the slightly different two wave directions. However, the pseudo intersecting wave trains, i.e., out-of-phase wave trains, could be formed in the field by the transformation of long-crest waves propagating over a specific change of topography in an intermediate water depth, for example, a submerged semi-infinite straight seamount range parallel to the shoreline. The long-crest wave train can be divided into two wave trains with phase difference because of the different wave speeds over the end of the submerged structure. To understand the evolution process of nearshore currents generated due to transverse phase differences, a laboratory experiment was planned. This study showed the preliminary laboratory experiments in which two wave trains with phase differences and its resultant nearshore currents were observed using the optical flow method.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/SaMl6rspZmw

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A laboratory experiment of rip currents between the ends of breaking wave crests

Cited by 12 publications

References 42 publications

Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

LSPIV analysis of ship-induced wave wash

A Preliminary Experiment of Nearshore Current Generated Due to Transverse Phase Differences

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