A Mixed-Method Study of Design Practices and Designers’ Roles in Sustainable-Minded Clothing Companies

Abstract

The way in which the current fashion industry operates needs to fundamentally change. In this endeavour, designers are considered central figures throughout the sustainable fashion literature. However, too little is known about clothing designers’ practical contributions to sustainability. Therefore, this study investigates how sustainability is integrated into design practices in sustainable-minded clothing companies and determines the role of clothing designers in this respect. A mixed-method study was conducted based on a sequential exploratory strategy. The data were collected in two stages: a preliminary phase based on five expert interviews and a survey phase, which involved 31 clothing designers from around Europe. The data analysis was also divided into two phases: thematic analysis of the interviews and content analysis of the survey. The findings indicate that the sustainable design practices within these companies predominantly focus on material choices and aspects that support product longevity. Yet, there is little empirical evidence to support claims regarding garments’ true longevity. Knowledge regarding materials, recycling and best practices is also lacking among clothing designers. Lack of knowledge and company strategies frequently dictate and restrict the design work. This further highlights the fact that designers’ opportunities to influence environmental and social change are more limited than earlier literature suggests.

Sustainability in Fashion Brands

“…To support the transition of fashion brands to sustainability, thus reducing the negative impacts on the environment and society of present practices, Karell and Niinimäki (2020) [22] highlight the need for empirical study to assess the actual implementation of sustainability practices, to bridge the gap between theoretical knowledge and practice. Specifically in the realm of Supply Chain Management, research is needed, as suggested by Brun et al (2020) [21], to further investigate how to overcome the hurdles to sustainably-oriented collaboration, as well as how new emerging technology, e.g., block chain, can support increasing transparency and enable new sustainable business models.…”

“…From a managerial perspective, it means practitioners aiming to increase fashion brand sustainability should build long-term and constructive collaborations between supply chain actors. Karell and Niinimäki (2020) [22] look inside the company to open up the design process and discuss how sustainability can be integrated into design and the role of clothing designers in reaching brands' sustainable objectives. Using expert interviews and a survey, they investigate sustainable design practices and the role of clothes designers in sustainably-minded companies.…”

Circular Fashion: The New Roles of Designers in Organizations Transitioning to a Circular Economy

“…But there still seems to be very little positive impact in regards to circularity coming from the design departments in medium and large organizations. In this article as well as in a lot of the design-research, fashion designers are often described as 'Agents of Change' in the industry, but the actual effect of their efforts is still very limited and so is the knowledge about their actual contributions to sustainability in the companies (Karell and Niinim€ aki 2020).…”

“…Even if there are multiple design methods proposed to plan how materials can stay in circulation for a longer period of time, (i.e:. design for longevity, design for reuse or design for services) (Niinim€ aki 2017), CE calls for radical innovation as there are multiple barriers to consider: technological, organizational, financial, structural, operational and attitudinal (Karell and Niinim€ aki 2020;Ritz en and Sandstr€ om 2017).…”

“…Recent sustainable fashion research also shows how designers approach sustainability at multiple levels in the organization (Kozlowski, Bardecki, and Searcy 2019), but at the same time meets organizational limitations in terms of company strategies and mindsets, and shifting perceptions of the designer's role and his/her sustainability knowledge (Karell and Niinim€ aki 2020). So far, only very little research has been performed on if and how the designer, as an individual, can drive circularity (Karell and Niinim€ aki 2020).…”