A morphological modeling study to compare different methods of wave climate schematization and evaluate strategies to reduce erosion losses from a beach nourishment project

Benedet, Lindino; Dobrochinski, J.P.F.; Walstra, D.J.R.; Klein, Antonio H. F.; Ranasinghe, Roshanka

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.02.005

Cited by 39 publications

(59 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…In contrast to the above-mentioned brute force approaches, another set of techniques apply a set of representative wave forcing conditions (i.e., wave input reduction) to forecast morphological evolution [15,27,28]. Such techniques focus on reducing the number of wave input conditions resulting in a set of limited yet representative wave conditions.…”

Section: Techniques Using Representative Wave Conditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Subsequently, a set of O(10) representative wave conditions that reproduce similar LST values is determined. Optimizing methods and tools like OPTI [28,31] can be used to obtain this set efficiently.…”

Section: Input Reduction Based On Longshore Sediment Transportsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Another common method is to use the wave data at an offshore location to select a set of representative conditions and probability of occurrence [28]; referred to as offshore wave climate technique (OWC); see Figure 4c. The offshore wave heights are converted into wave energies or energy fluxes.…”

Section: Input Reduction Based On Offshore Wave Climatementioning

confidence: 99%

“…The wave roses and density distribution show slight differences in wave characteristics at the two locations (see Figure 9) with somewhat larger NW waves at IJmuiden. Several variants of input reduction based on wave energy have been reported in literature [13,15,28]. Here we have applied the FBM (Fixed Bins Method) approach [28], in which a limited number of representative wave conditions are derived based on the wave energy per wave bin.…”

Section: Technique Based On Offshore Wave Climatementioning

confidence: 99%

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Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

Luijendijk

Schipper

Ranasinghe

2019

JMSE

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Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m 3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called ’brute force merged’, which incorporates the full variability of the wave climate, provides the optimal combination of phenomenological accuracy and computational efficiency (a factor of 20 faster than the benchmark brute force technique) at both the short and medium to long time scales. This approach, which combines realistic time series and the mormerge technique, provides an attractive and flexible method to efficiently predict the evolution of complex sandy interventions at time scales from hours to decades.

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Section: Techniques Using Representative Wave Conditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Input Reduction Based On Longshore Sediment Transportsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Input Reduction Based On Offshore Wave Climatementioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Technique Based On Offshore Wave Climatementioning

confidence: 99%

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Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

Luijendijk

Schipper

Ranasinghe

2019

JMSE

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“…Those sometimes constructed as countermeasures against beach erosion where the availability of sediments for nourishment is limited [24]. The construction of breakwater influenced by wave energy and sediment transport patterns of the study area [25].…”

Section: Wave Breaker Stucturementioning

confidence: 99%

A Framework for Plans Permeable Breakwater Eco-Friendly Building Identification and Characteristics Materials Construction Study Case at Demak Village

Sugianto¹,

Widada²,

Wirastriya³

et al. 2020

Adv. sci. technol. eng. syst. j.

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Demak is located on the north coast of Java, precisely in Central Java Province, Indonesia which has many problems related to erosion and shoreline degradation. This study attempts to analyze, identify, and select the materials to build eco-friendly permeable breakwater in Demak. The research was conducted during 2014, consist of several activities, i.e. identified the condition of breakwaters position, materials, and construction, did literature study of identification type breakwaters, study area, sediment, chemical reaction, then reverse design and modification for eco-friendly permeable breakwater. The result is a design of eco-friendly permeable breakwater which used a material of PVC pipe and Bamboo. PVC has excellent chemical resistance, also will increase sedimentation process and accelerate coastal changes towards the sea. Effectiveness level of breakwater made from combination of tire and PVC was 62%, and reveal to be more economical than other general-purpose plastics such as PE, PP, or PS.

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The role of cuspate spits on wave attenuation and energy redistribution in a coastal lagoon, Lagoa dos Patos, Brazil

et al. 2020

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This research uses a process-based model (Delft3D), validated with measured wave data, to investigate the controls that a cuspate shoreline and its associated submerged morphology have on wave generation, propagation and attenuation within a large elongated lagoon (Lagoa dos Patos, Brazil). A method based on the Energy-Flux-Method was applied to the historical wind dataset to define representative wind cases to be used as forcing conditions in the model. The results show that, during extreme wind conditions, the spits dissipate wave energy in the lagoon. This (wave attenuation and the wave sheltering effect) controls the stability of the adjacent coastline. The wave attenuation varies between 18 and 46% along the submerged spit depending on the crest width and the amplitude of the incident waves. Waves are mainly attenuated in the proximal and central portions of the spits where the spits are wider, resulting in a reduced transmitted energy to the adjacent coastline, while larger waves are also attenuated on the distal end of the spits. The degree of attenuation depends on the direction of wave generation, the respective fetch, the spit width, and the water depth. A strong relationship of mutual co-adjustment between the morphology and the wave field results in a very low occurance of oblique wave angles of incidence, especially for waves propagating accross the long lagoon axis. Furthermore, the wave attenuation over the spits is also responsible for its progressive erosion, which from decades to centuries, may lead to an increase of changes on the lagoon shorelines.

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A morphological modeling study to compare different methods of wave climate schematization and evaluate strategies to reduce erosion losses from a beach nourishment project

Cited by 39 publications

References 16 publications

Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

A Framework for Plans Permeable Breakwater Eco-Friendly Building Identification and Characteristics Materials Construction Study Case at Demak Village

The role of cuspate spits on wave attenuation and energy redistribution in a coastal lagoon, Lagoa dos Patos, Brazil

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