A Note on the Characterization of Metal Threads in Historic Textiles Handed down by the Ainu People

Kohara, Natsuko; Sasa, Y.; Sakurai, Kiyohiko; Uda, M.

doi:10.2307/1506647

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“…A digital microscope was used to enhance and register the selected details. Stereomicroscopy and SEM are the most commonly used analytical techniques for the study of metal threads (Indictor et al, 1989; Kohara et al, 1998; Nord et al, 2000; Hacke et al, 2003; Muros et al, 2007; Karatzni, 2008; Rezić et al, 2010). The threads sampled from the cope were studied with a stereomicroscope to determine morphological aspects, including the twist of the metal strip and the weft and warp fibers, in order to evaluate the color of different fibers used in the weaving and embroidery of the core silk yarns, the thread diameter, and the number of coils per millimeter of metal thread.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Liturgical Cope of D. Teotónio of Braganza: Material Characterization of a 16th CenturyPluviale

et al. 2014

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A 16th century liturgical cope belonging to D. Teotónio of Braganza (collection of the Museum of Évora, ME 172/1) was selected for a material study. The cope is made of a variety of materials that include two different types of metal threads, dyed silk yarns, and vegetable yarns used in the weft. Several samples from different points representing the different metal thread types and colored silk yarns were collected. Stereomicroscopy (optical microscopy) and scanning electron microscopy were used for morphological analysis of the textile fibers and evaluation of metal thread degradation products. Evaluation of mordants and metal thread composition was carried out by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy. Liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometry detection was used for dye identification, which allowed the determination of three different red dye sources and one yellow dye source in the colored silk yarns. Although different fabrics were used in the manufacturing of the cope, similarities identified in the characterization of the materials suggest that a single workshop was involved in its making.

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