A Potential Valorization Strategy of Wine Industry by-Products and Their Application in Cosmetics—Case Study: Grape Pomace and Grapeseed

Abstract

Grape pomace and grapeseed are agro-industrial by-products, whose inadequate treatment generates socioeconomic and environmental concerns. Nevertheless, it is possible to valorize them by extracting their bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants (phenolic compounds), vitamin E and fatty acids. The bioactive compounds were extracted using solid-liquid extraction. The yields for phenolic compounds were 18.4 ± 0.4% for grape pomace, and 17.4 ± 0.4%, for grapeseed. For the oil, the yields were 13.3 ± 0.2% and 14.5 ± 0.3% for grape pomace and grapeseed. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by the assay with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and showed that phenolic extract has higher antioxidant capacity than the oils. Grape pomace and grapeseed extracts exhibit, correspondingly, values of 90.8 ± 0.8 and 87.5 ± 0.5 of DPPH inhibition and IC50 of 48.9 ± 0.5 and 55.9 ± 0.7 μgextract·mLDPPH−1. The antimicrobial capacity was assessed by the disk diffusion test, and revealed that, phenolic extracts inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The obtained extracts were incorporated in 10 face cream formulations, with slight modifications in quantities of formulation stabilizers. Their stability was studied for 35 days, and this revealed the possibility of incorporating extracts and oils obtained from by-products as antioxidants in cosmetics, and replacing synthetic ones. As a future recommendation, microencapsulation of the extracts should be performed, in order to increase their stability.

Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Hydro-Glyceric Extracts Obtained from Different Grape Seed Varieties Incorporated in Cosmetic Creams

“…No phase separation (i.e., coalescence or sedimentation) or color change, was observed after centrifuge and heat-shock treatments. Ferreira, S. M. et al also confirmed the stability of the creams containing polyphenols over 2 months, as no separation was detected after centrifugation or thermal stress [ 37 ]. From a rheological point of view, polyphenols were found to be stable when incorporated into commercial creams and would, therefore, serve as a great pioneer for the skincare industry.…”

“…The use of toxic solvents was avoided, and glycerin was used instead of ethanol, since it is safer and also a skin emollient solvent, which prevents the skin from dryness [ 36 ]. Ferreira et al used ethanol as medium for the extraction of polyphenols, but this water-soluble solvent is also considered a more erosive compound when applied to the skin compared to glycerin, which is more eco-friendly as well [ 37 ]. The same extraction procedure was applied to the recovery of the main bioactive compounds from the five different varieties of grape seeds: Marselan, Syrah, Obeidi, Cabernet Franc, and Asswad Karech.…”

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

“…Nowadays, consumers look for cosmetics mainly composed of natural ingredients and with fewer negative effects on the environment. Hereupon, researchers started to study the possibility of using the waste produced from food and plant processing to attain bioactive ingredients, mainly antioxidants, that prevent the oxidation of the product and help to reduce the oxidative damage of cellular components, and antimicrobial agents, ingredients that have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties [ 14 , 15 , 16 ]. This strategy has helped to develop greener and value-added cosmetics, as well as to reduce and recycle waste, diminishing their environmental, social, and economic impact.…”

A fibre and phenolic-rich flour from Isabel grape by-products with stimulatory effects on distinct probiotics and beneficial impacts on human colonic microbiota in vitro

“…However, a large amount of the weight of processed grapes (20-30%) remains as waste, which represents about 10 to 20 thousand tons of residues per year. The inadequate disposal and treatment of these residues represent a waste management issue at socioeconomic and environmental levels, with the last one characterized by contributing to an increase in the emission of gases with the greenhouse effect (Silva et al 2020;Ferreira and Santos 2022). The Isabel grape is among the most used grape cultivars to produce juice, wine, jam, raisins and as a table grape, with emphasis on Brazil and the United States as the largest producers (Silva et al 2017;Kurt-Celebi et al 2020).…”

“…products with high added value (Silva et al 2021). Considering the growing concern with sustainability and the circular economy model, the opportunities to reuse grape by-products should bring great socioeconomic and environmental benefits (Ferreira and Santos 2022).…”