A Survey of UV Filters Used in Sunscreen Cosmetics

Abstract

The aim of this study was to determine the types of UV filters used in adult and children’s sunscreen products sold in Poland (part of the EU market) and their frequency of use. The INCI compositions of sunscreen products were collected and analyzed for the presence of UV filters. The study included 150 randomly selected preparations for adults (from 71 brands) and 50 for children (from 33 brands). The survey concerned the UV filters listed in Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. The most frequently used UV filters in the child sunscreens were triazine derivatives: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (60.0%) and ethylhexyl triazone (52.0%), and ethylhexyl salicylate (46.0%), a derivative of salicylic acid. The most common in adult sunscreens were butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (56.0%), a dibenzoylmethane derivative, followed by the salicylic acid derivative ethylhexyl salicylate (54.7%) and the triazine derivatives bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (54.7%) and ethylhexyl triazone (50.0%). Physical filters, including their nano and non-nano forms, were more popular in sunscreens for children, i.e., 50.0% (TiO2) and 22.0% (ZnO), than for adults: 21.3% (TiO2) and 6.7% (ZnO). For both adults and children, many cosmetic products contained four or five UV filters per preparation; however, the child preparations often used two UV filters. To summarize, the following UV filters dominate in photoprotectors for both adults and children: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.

Photochemical and Oxidative Degradation of Chamazulene Contained in Artemisia, Matricaria and Achillea Essential Oils and Setup of Protection Strategies

“…Experiments in the presence of sunscreens also offered interesting observations ( Table 4 ). Three molecules were selected on the basis of their frequent occurrence in cosmetic products [ 47 , 48 ] and were comparatively tested: Tinosorb ®® S, a broad spectrum UVB-UVA filter (290–370 nm) with maxima of absorption at 310 and 350 nm, octocrylene, a UVB filter reaching the short-wavelength UVA region (280–330 nm, λ max 307 nm) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) with similar coverage (280–330 nm, λ max 311 nm) [ 49 , 50 , 51 ].…”

“…Somewhat surprising was instead the lack of protection demonstrated by octocrylene, despite an absorption spectral range similar to OMC. Indeed, concerning their mechanism of photoprotection, all the tested sunscreens are expected to act by non-specific mechanism, i.e., by absorbing a relevant fraction of UVA-UVB radiation, whose energy is then dissipated in the form of heat, thereby reducing the effective incident UVA-UVB dose on CA, similarly to the known action on human skin [47,48]. Since also octocrylene is known to undergo degradation on exposure to UVA-UVB irradiation [56], possibly a similar explanation, as for the end of protection by OMC, can be put forward.…”

Photochemical and Oxidative Degradation of Chamazulene Contained in Artemisia, Matricaria and Achillea Essential Oils and Setup of Protection Strategies

“…Experiments in the presence of sunscreens also offered interesting observations (Table 4). Three molecules were selected on the basis of their frequent occurrence in cosmetic products [41,42], and were comparatively tested: Tinosorb® S, a broad spectrum UVB-UVA filter (290-370 nm) with maxima of absorption at 310 and 350 nm, octocrylene, a UVB filter reaching the short-wavelenght UVA region (280-330 nm, λmax 307 nm), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) with similar coverage (280-330 nm, λmax 311 nm) [43][44][45].…”