A unified deep‐to‐shallow water wave‐breaking probability parameterization

Filipot, Jean-François; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Babanin, Alexander V.

doi:10.1029/2009jc005448

Cited by 34 publications

(81 citation statements)

References 47 publications

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“…This type of dissipation is obviously distinct from (22) because it does not require that the longer waves are breaking, and it was in fact implemented experimentally in a previous version of SWAN, the so-called Cumulative Steepness Method (CSM; see van Vledder and Hurdle 2002; Hurdle and ' We point out, however, that none of these models have been extended for use in the surf zone, where it may be necessary to introduce new features to the dissipation formulation. The reader is referred to recent work on this topic by Filipot et al (2010). van Vledder 2004), where the dissipation is estimated from an integration of the steepness of longer waves T,(f, e) = a (27) where (p(f') is a function to produce a dependency on the relative angle between E(f, 6) and the lowerfrequency energy acting on it, E(f ',d').…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Observation-Consistent Input and Whitecapping Dissipation in a Model for Wind-Generated Surface Waves: Description and Simple Calculations

Rogers

Babanin

Wang

2012

Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology

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142

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A new wind-input and wind-breaking dissipation for phase-averaged spectral models of wind-generated surface waves is presented. Both are based on recent field observations in Lake George, New South Wales, Australia, at moderate-to-strong wind-wave conditions. The respective parameterizations are built on quantitative measurements and incorporate new observed physical features, which until very recently were missing in source terms employed in operational models. Two novel features of the wind-input source function are those that account for the effects of full airflow separation (and therefore relative reduction of the input at strong wind forcing) and for nonlinear behavior of this term. The breaking term also incorporates two new features evident from observational studies; the dissipation consists of two parts-a strictly local dissipation term and a cumulative term-and there is a threshold for wave breaking, below which no breaking occurs. Four variants of the dissipation term are selected for evaluation, with minimal calibration to each. These four models are evaluated using simple calculations herein. Results are generally favorable. Evaluation for more complex situations will be addressed in a forthcoming paper.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Observation-Consistent Input and Whitecapping Dissipation in a Model for Wind-Generated Surface Waves: Description and Simple Calculations

Rogers

Babanin

Wang

2012

Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology

Self Cite

199

142

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“… Filipot et al [2010, hereinafter FAB] proposed a parameterization of the breaking probability derived from the wave spectrum. In that work, waves are decomposed in scales with overlapping spectral contents.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A positive aspect is that, for the dominant waves, this analysis is consistent with the work of Banner et al [2000], and provides a method for extending it to shorter or longer‐wave components. The FAB formulation relies on the observation that, whatever the water depth, waves break when their crest orbital velocities u c approaches their phase velocity C [e.g., Wu and Nepf , 2002; Stansell and MacFarlane , 2002]. This allows the breaking probability parameterization P FAB to be operative from deep to shallow water.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This allows the breaking probability parameterization P FAB to be operative from deep to shallow water. In the present study, following FAB, we use this breaking criterion, u c / C ≃ 1, in a single wave‐breaking source term S bk , which we expect to be valid from the deep ocean to the surf zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This parameterization is obtained by combining the breaking probability per wave scale proposed by FAB, with an estimation of the dissipation rate in each breaker. This gives the source function S bk .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone

Filipot¹,

Ardhuin²

2012

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] A new wave-breaking dissipation parameterization designed for phase-averaged spectral wave models is presented. It combines wave breaking basic physical quantities, namely, the breaking probability and the dissipation rate per unit area. The energy lost by waves is first explicitly calculated in physical space before being distributed over the relevant spectral components. The transition from deep to shallow water is made possible by using a dissipation rate per unit area of breaking waves that varies with the wave height, wavelength and water depth. This parameterization is implemented in the WAVEWATCH III modeling framework, which is applied to a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to the beach scale. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Model errors are comparable to those of other specialized deep or shallow water parameterizations. This work shows that it is possible to have a seamless parameterization from the deep ocean to the surf zone.Citation: Filipot, J.-F., and F. Ardhuin (2012), A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone,

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Surface wave breaking over sheared currents: Observations from the Mouth of the Columbia River

Zippel

Thomson

2017

JGR Oceans

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Measurements of waves and currents from freely drifting buoys are used to evaluate wave breaking parameterizations at the Mouth of the Columbia River, where breaking occurs in intermediate depths and in the presence of vertically sheared currents. Breaking waves are identified using images collected with cameras onboard the buoys, and the breaking activity is well‐correlated with wave steepness. Vertical shear in the currents produces a frequency‐dependent effective current that modifies the linear dispersion relation. Accounting for these sheared currents in the wavenumber spectrum is essential in calculating the correct wave steepness; without this, wave steepness can be over (under) estimated on opposing (following) currents by up to 20%. The observed bulk steepness values suggest a limiting value of 0.4. The observed fraction of breaking waves is in good agreement with several existing models, each based on wave steepness. Further, a semispectral model designed for all depth regimes also compares favorably with measured breaking fractions. In this model, the majority of wave breaking is predicted to occur in the higher frequency bands (i.e., short waves). There is a residual dependence on directional spreading, in which wave breaking decreases with increasing directional spread.

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A unified deep‐to‐shallow water wave‐breaking probability parameterization

Cited by 34 publications

References 47 publications

Observation-Consistent Input and Whitecapping Dissipation in a Model for Wind-Generated Surface Waves: Description and Simple Calculations

Observation-Consistent Input and Whitecapping Dissipation in a Model for Wind-Generated Surface Waves: Description and Simple Calculations

A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone

Surface wave breaking over sheared currents: Observations from the Mouth of the Columbia River

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