Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

Abstract

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin’s own defenses against sun damage.

Open‐label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation

“…14,15 They also increased collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts. 14,15 AZ is an effective stabilizer of THDA and increases the delivery of the vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, into the skin. 14,15 The objective of this study was to determine if topical application of a serum containing THDA and AZ could improve the appearance of facial photoaging.…”

“…14 AZ is a photostable antioxidant derived from ginger that is able to stabilize THDA in the skin. 15 When used in tandem, THDA and AZ increased expression of genes associated with lipid membrane homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation. 14,15 They also increased collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts.…”

“…15 When used in tandem, THDA and AZ increased expression of genes associated with lipid membrane homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation. 14,15 They also increased collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts. 14,15 AZ is an effective stabilizer of THDA and increases the delivery of the vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, into the skin.…”

Molecular approach to skin aging: new perspectives

“…En un ensayo clínico que se realizó en Estados Unidos por 8 semanas, los participantes se aplicaron dos veces al día la crema con el componente al 1% de concentración o el placebo, existió una mejoría en la severidad de las arrugas, pigmentación y enrojecimiento de la piel producto del fotoenvejecimiento. (24,25) Líquidos con pulpa de café o serums faciales con café, contienen polifenoles como el ácido gálico, el cual es un antioxidante, disminuye la expresión de elastasa, colagenasa, estimula la producción de colágeno en los fibroblastos e inhibe la tirosinasa. Tras administración de estos elementos por 8 semanas en 40 sujetos de Taiwan, divididos en grupos, uno que usaron el producto y otro un placebo, se observó, una piel más humectada, firme y elástica con una reducción de manchas.…”

Ex vivo Evaluation of a Liposome-Mediated Antioxidant Delivery System on Markers of Skin Photoaging and Skin Penetration

“… 17 Alternatively, acetyl zingerone is an antioxidant which has been shown to be photostable and is able to stabilize the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA). 18 Tocopherol is lipophilic, allowing it to easily penetrate the lipid-rich stratum corneum. 19 However, tocopherol in its pure form is poorly water soluble, photosensitive, and may be irritating to the skin.…”