Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock climbers

Logan, Andrew; Makwana, Nilesh; Mason, Gary L.; Dias, JJ

doi:10.1136/bjsm.2002.003558

Cited by 89 publications

(81 citation statements)

References 10 publications

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“…This may cause injuries, because the greater the exposure to overloading, the greater the likelihood of sustaining hand injuries [10,11]. Dramatic loss in handgrip force restricts the climbing ability, as well, which cannot be neglected from the safety point of view.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Post-Exercise Decrease in Handgrip Force Following a Single Training Session in Male and Female Climbers

Gajewski¹,

Jarosiewicz

2008

Human Movement

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Purpose. The purpose of the study was to reveal a possible relationship between maximal gripping force and climbing ability as well as to compare a decrease in handgrip force caused by training session in male and female climbers. Basic procedures. Seventy-four climbers (49 males and 25 females) took part in a climbing session on artificial wall. Grip force of both hands was measured twicebefore and after the training session. Main findings. The subjects self-reported their climbing abilities in a quantitative Australian scale. In both groups, climbing ability correlated with handgrip force related to body mass. Relative force significantly decreased (F 1,72 = 53.2, p < 0.001) post-exercise from 6.83 ± 1.16 to 5.96 ± 1.18 N/kg in males and from 5.43 ± 0.91 to 4.94 ± 0.84 N/kg in females. The decrease was significantly greater in male climbers (F 1,72 = 4.11, p < 0.05). Conclusions. Less decrease in strength postclimbing in female can positively affect their climbing ability and compensate lower relative handgrip strength. Women should draw more attention to maximal strength training while men to climbing technique and endurance.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Post-Exercise Decrease in Handgrip Force Following a Single Training Session in Male and Female Climbers

Gajewski¹,

Jarosiewicz

2008

Human Movement

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“…Many scientific climbing papers only present case studies or common hand injuries [17,19,30,41,48,54,55,[60][61][62][63] and are there- Table 1 The ten most frequent localization of climbing specific diagnoses 1/98-12/01 [61] n (%) Schöffl …”

Section: Injury Distributionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Feet injuries in rock climbers

Schöffl

Küpper²

2013

WJO

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While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet. Acute injuries are either caused by ground falls or rock hit trauma during a fall. Most frequently strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. More rare injuries, as e.g. , osteochondral lesions of the talus demand a highly specialized care and case presentations with combined iliac crest graft and matrix associated autologous chondrocyte transplantation are given in this review. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.© 2013 Baishideng. All rights reserved. Key words: Rock climbing; Sport climbing; Feet injuries; Hallux valgus; Overstrain injuriesCore tip: While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet and most frequently are strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.

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“…In a study by Jones et al [2], around 50 % of the climbers sustained one or more injury in the past 12 months. Injuries in rock climbing are common and more than half of these injuries involve the wrist and hand [4]. Largiader and Oelz [5] reported injuries in the upper part of the body and upper extremities in 90 % of all injuries.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Similarly, there are scant data available regarding the association between injury incidence in climbing and age or climbing skills. Recent findings, however, suggest that the percentage of injuries may increase both with older age [6] and improved climbing skills [4][5][6].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%