Alkenones as a Promising Green Alternative for Waxes in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

Abstract

Abstract:The move toward green, sustainable, natural products has been growing in the cosmetic and personal care industry. Ingredients derived from marine organisms and algae are present in many cosmetic products. In this study, a new green ingredient, a wax (i.e., long-chain alkenones) derived from Isochyrsis sp., was evaluated as an alternative for cosmetic waxes. First, the melting point was determined (71.1-77.4 • C), then the alkenones' thickening capability in five emollients was evaluated and compared to microcrystalline wax and ozokerite. Alkenones were compatible with three emollients and thickened the emollients similarly to the other waxes. Then, lipsticks and lip balms were formulated with and without alkenones. All products remained stable at room temperature for 10 weeks. Lipstick formulated with alkenones was the most resistant to high temperature. Finally, alkenones were compared to three cosmetic thickening waxes in creams. Viscosity, rheology, and stability of the creams were evaluated. All creams had a gel-like behavior. Both viscosity and storage modulus increased in the same order: cream with alkenones < cetyl alcohol < stearic acid < glyceryl monostearate. Overall, alkenones' performance was comparable to the other three waxes. Alkenones can thus offer a potential green choice as a new cosmetic structuring agent.

An Overview on the Properties of Ximenia Oil Used as Cosmetic in Angola

“…The determination of the yield stress is also relevant, since the lower its value the easier the product can be spread on the skin, because the yield stress determines the thickness of the product layer on the skin. Additionally, the viscosity of the LPO decreases with temperature, as it is also normal for most cosmetic and personal care products [33].…”

Alkenones, a Renewably Sourced, Biobased Wax as an SPF Booster for Organic Sunscreens

“…Specifically, alkenones formed a stable mix with a liquid organic UV filter, i.e., ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and thickened the UV filter well in that particular concentration (i.e., 10% alkenones). In the same study, alkenones created relatively low viscosity skin creams (i.e., 1470 ± 10 cP at 1 s −1 at room temperature) [23].…”

“…The alkenones used in this study have been previously described and characterized extensively [20][21][22]. In a previous study [23], we found that alkenones displayed promising properties for their potential use in sunscreens. Specifically, alkenones formed a stable mix with a liquid organic UV filter, i.e., ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and thickened the UV filter well in that particular concentration (i.e., 10% alkenones).…”

Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant‐derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks

“…Alkenones were isolated and purified from the Isochrysis biomass as previously described [25]. In our preliminary study [14], we selected microcrystalline wax and ozokerite to compare to the alkenones. Our reasoning was the that these waxes and alkenones have similar melting points (microcrystalline wax 64-72°C [26], ozokerite 73-76°C [27], and alkenones 71.1-77.4°C [14]).…”

“…In a previous study, we found alkenones to be a viable alternative to microcrystalline wax and ozokerite in lipsticks and lip balms based on visual observations during a 10‐week period at two different temperatures. The goal of this study was to compare alkenones to waxes commonly used in lipsticks and instrumentally evaluate the effect of alkenones on the hardness, stiffness, firmness and pay‐off of lipsticks.…”