An assessment of Africa’s second-hand clothing value chain: a systematic review and research opportunities

Abstract

A rapid change in fast fashion has significantly accelerated the expansion of the volume of discarded clothing across the globe. Africa is the world’s largest destination for second-hand clothes (SHC, sometimes known as ‘Mitumba’). However, fewer studies have been conducted on Africa’s SHC, making it challenging to evaluate the impact of the market and its value chain. This study examines the economic contribution and assessment of the SHC value chain and the resulting environmental challenges, identifies the trends of scholarly discourse on the topic in Africa, examines their methodologies and develops future research opportunities. The study shows that the SHC trade is an essential supply chain connecting developed and developing countries and a valuable clothing consumption alternative for people experiencing economic decline, poverty and low purchasing power. SHC is crucial in delivering fashion products to customers in underdeveloped African countries. It also creates job opportunities for hundreds of thousands of people in the trade, distribution, repairs, laundry services and upcycling. Results further show that Africans are being enriched with new skills and knowledge of the SHC trade, which is expected to help grow and promote small- to medium-sized enterprises. However, poorly made Mitumba become unmarketable, creating environmental challenges in cities across the continent. The study found fewer empirical studies, due largely to limited data on Africa’s SHC trade. This calls for more empirical studies to scale the SHC trade in the region, expand the boundaries of entrepreneurial opportunities for Africa to interact with the global market, and alleviate the widespread problem of extreme poverty while also addressing the environmental challenges posed by SHC.