An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments

Abstract

During a full tidal cycle, the beach profile is exposed to continuously changing hydrodynamical conditions. Consequently, the profile evolves constantly to adapt to these changes. The equilibrium condition on tidal beaches is defined in terms of the relative occurrence of swash, surf zone and shoaling processes. We have assumed that the tidal beach profile is in equilibrium when the net sediment transport along a tidal cycle is zero. In this model the contribution of swash is considered negligible. A simple and easy-to-apply equilibrium profile formulation is proposed. This model is based on the assumption that surf zone processes dominate the profile morphology wherever wave breaking occurs during the tidal cycle. The obtained equilibrium profile is valid from the high tide level to the breaker point at low tide level. The tidal influence on the profile morphology is the lengthening of the surf profile. The higher the tidal range, the longer the surf profile. The model was tested against field and laboratory data, showing reasonable predictions of measured beach profiles.

APPMAR 1.0: A Python application for downloading and analyzing of WAVEWATCH III® wave and wind data

“…It is also possible to apply parametric models with wave information, e.g. : Parabolic beach profile (Dean, 1977), or the one proposed by Bernabeu et al (2002). These techniques make possible to establish if a coastal sector is in equilibrium state and are also very useful for the development of alternatives for beach stabilization.…”

Error on the Estimation of Sand Size Parameters When Using Small Diameter Sieves and a Solution

“…The work process for beach nourishment requires finding suitable sand to replace the native sand eroded from the beach (Pranzini et al, 2018;Saponieri et al, 2018), and to estimate the amount of sand needed for beach nourishment (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 2002). Analyses of the sand-size distribution provides clues about the origin, depositional environment, and transport history of the sand (Bernabeu Tello et al, 2002;Singh et al, 2007;Fenster et al, 2016;Remo et al, 2016;Grottoli et al, 2017;Hallin et al, 2019). Additionally, sand-size analysis is an essential methodology used to classify materials and sedimentary environments (Steidtmann, 1982;Roman-Sierra et al, 2011), and it can also be used to make predictions about the longevity of sand on a beach and how it reacts to storms (Bascom, 1951;Larson and Kraus, 1991;Grottoli et al, 2017;de Villar et al, 2019).…”

Influence of Different Sieving Methods on Estimation of Sand Size Parameters

“…Parameters such as D 50 and sorting (σ) are necessary for calculating equilibrium profiles or estimating sediment transport [4,5], to check if the borrowed sand is suitable to substitute the native sand eroded from the beach [6,7] or to calculate the required amount of sand for beach nourishment [8]. Analysis of sand-size distribution also gives essential hints to the origin, depositional environment and movement history [9]. Moreover, sand-size analysis is an indispensable mechanism to subdivide facies and environments [10] and it also makes possible to see how a beach reacts to storms [11].…”