An Evolution Equation of Mild-Slope Equation for Water Waves Propagating Over Porous Media With Large Angle Incidence

A Parabolic Equation for Wave Propagation over Porous Structures

“…A numerical wave model has been developed by Hsu et al (2008a;2008b;2009) for wave propagation over porous structures on the basis of an evolution equation of mild-slope equation (EEMSE), including wave breaking and energy dissipation. The model is simple and it incurs a lower computational cost even when modeling large coastal areas.…”

“…For this reason, the parabolic MSE of Mordane et al (2004) is extended to account for wave propagation over submerged permeable structures. A further development of the parabolic MSE for porous structures including reflection is also carried out by Hsu et al (2008b). The other restriction of the parabolic MSE is that it is applicable only to regular waves.…”

“…To further consider the effect of wave reflection, the EEMSE was developed by Hsu et al (2008b) to simulate waves propagation over a porous structure. Following Hsu et al (2008b) a numerical model which includes wave-porous media interaction, wave reflection, wave breaking and dissipation was presented.…”

“…Following Hsu et al (2008b) a numerical model which includes wave-porous media interaction, wave reflection, wave breaking and dissipation was presented. Eq.…”

A parabolic equation for wave propagation over porous structures

“…Numerical wave models such as RCPWAVE (Ebersole et al, 1986), REF/DIF-1 (Kirby and Dalrymple, 1991), and the Parabolic Wave Model (Mordane et al, 2004), all of which neglect the wave reflection, are frequently used as tool for predicting coastal erosion and deposition. The main purpose of this paper is to extend the EEMSE addressed by Hsu and Wen (2001) and Hsu et al (2008b) for waves propagating over submerged permeable structures in the surf zone. The governing equation is a parabolic formulation of the EEMSE including the breaking and energy dissipation effect of porous structures.…”