An Heuristic Model of Wave Height Distribution in Surf Zone

Mizuguchi, Masaru

doi:10.1061/9780872622647.015

Cited by 15 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 6 publications

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“…The laboratory data of Horikawa and Kuo [1966], general observations, and intuition support such a phenomenon, yet none of the energy dissipation models based on the moving hydraulic jump predict this effect. Although the model by Mizuguchi [1981] includes this stabilization, the difficulties of estimating the representative eddy viscosity and of rationally applying the model on a beach of nonuniform slope argue for a simpler model.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

Dally¹,

Dean²,

Dalrymple³

1985

J. Geophys. Res.

289

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An intuitive expression for the spatial change in energy flux associated with waves breaking in the surf zone is developed. Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an “equilibrium” beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favorable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Set‐down/set‐up in the mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are introduced, and solutions are obtained numerically. The model is calibrated and verified using laboratory data with very good results for the wave decay but not so favorable results for set‐up. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing two bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave re‐forming process commonly observed in nature. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

Dally¹,

Dean²,

Dalrymple³

1985

J. Geophys. Res.

289

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“…Mizuguchi (1981) developed a model that allowed for wave deformation on complex beach profiles, as does models of Dally (1980);Svendsen (1984Svendsen ( , 1985andDally, Dean, andDalrymple (1985a, 1985b …”

Section: Derived a Semiempirical Relationship Formentioning

confidence: 99%

“…hb I where n was empirically determined through regression analysis from previously acquired data of Kuo (1965), Horikawa and Kuo (1967), Saeki and Sasaki (1973), Sasaki and Saeki (1974), Van Dorn (1977), Mizuguchi (1981), Maruyama et al (1983), andStive (1985). Battjes andJanssen (1979), Dally (1980), and Thornton and Guza (1983) applying monochromatic decay models to a distribution of wave heights.…”

Section: Derived a Semiempirical Relationship Formentioning

confidence: 99%

Laboratory Study on Macro-Features of Wave Breaking Over Bars and Artificial Reefs

Smith¹,

Kraus²

1990

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“…Shibayama and Horikawa [1985] developed a numerical model for computing crossshore beach transformation. Calculated wave height transformation was based on energy flux conservation by using non-linear wave theory (1 st order Cnoidal or Stokes waves) in the offshore zone and by using the energy dissipation model of Mizuguchi [1980] inside the surf zone. The model of Shibayama and Horikawa [1982], which included suspended load caused by ripple vortex, computed sediment transport rates.…”

Section: Summary Of Previous Process-based Profile Models and Field-smentioning

confidence: 99%

A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model

Jayaratne

Rahman

Shibayama

2014

Coastal Engineering Journal

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Developing an accurate and reliable time-averaged beach profile evolution model under normal and storm conditions is a challenging task. Over the last few decades, a number of beach deformation models have been developed under limited experimental conditions and uncertainties, and sometimes they required a long computation time. It is quite evident that a large amount of wave, current, sediment and beach profile data is available today. The present study leads to the development of a simple two-dimensional beach profile evolution model with on-offshore sand bar formation under non-storm and storm conditions based on the time-averaged suspended sediment concentration models of Jayaratne & Shibayama [2007] and Jayaratne et al. [2011]. These models were formulated for computing sediment concentration in and outside the surf zone under three different mechanisms: 1) suspension due to turbulent motion over sand ripples, 2) suspension from sheet flow layer and, 3) suspension due to turbulent motion under breaking waves. The suspended load is calculated by the product of time-averaged sediment concentration and undertow velocity from edge of the wave boundary layer to wave trough, and mass transport velocity from wave trough to crest (bore-like wave region). Sediment transport in wave boundary layer is computed from the modified Watanabe [1982] model. Rattanapitikon and Shibayama [1998] wave model is used to calculate the average rate of energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The beach deformation is calculated from the conservation of sediment mass while the avalanching concept of Larson and Kraus [1989] is used to re-distribute the sediment mass in neighbouring grids for a steady solution. Published field-scale experimental and natural beach profiles from 5 high-quality data sources from 1983-2009 [Kajima et al., 1983Kraus and Larson, 1988; Port and Airport Research Institute, Japan, 2005, 2009;Hasan & Takewaka, 2007, 2009Ruessink et al., 2007] are used to verify the performance of the proposed numerical model. The key feature in this process-based model is that it takes about a couple of minutes to simulate beach profiles of a 2-3 days storm qualitatively at a fairly satisfactory level using a standard personal computer. It is found that the present numerical predictions are not better than the null hypothesis as the model is in a stage of ongoing development. Therefore, it is believed that the final model is often more value to a practical coastal engineer than a very detailed study of hydrodynamics and sediment transport study, however an incorporation of swash dynamics, more precise evaluation of offshore sand bar formation and continuation to a longer time scale with precise beach deformation is recommended as the next stage of the model.Key words: Two-dimensional beach profile evolution model; time-averaged suspended sediment concentration; on-offshore sand bar formation; average rate of energy dissipation; conservation of sediment mass; avalanching concept; field-scale experimental and natural bea...

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An Heuristic Model of Wave Height Distribution in Surf Zone

Cited by 15 publications

References 6 publications

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

Laboratory Study on Macro-Features of Wave Breaking Over Bars and Artificial Reefs

A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model

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