Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Giles, David; Barnes, Kimberly M; Taylor, Nicola; Chidley, Corinna; Chidley, Joel; Mitchell, James; Torr, Oliver; Gibson-Smith, Edward; España-Romero, Vanesa

doi:10.1080/02640414.2020.1804784

Cited by 17 publications

(24 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…However, it is useful to draw on other studies that examined anthropometric data in female climbers. Giles et al ( 2021 ) found that there was no significant difference in their female climber cohort between advanced and elite climbers for height, body mass, BMI, or skinfold thickness (Giles et al, 2021 ). The BMI for their elite climbers was 21.2 ± 2.0 kg/m 2 , which is slightly higher than those with amenorrhea in our present study.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Joubert

Warme

Larson

et al. 2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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Elite competitive sport climbers exhibit a high strength-to-weight ratio and are reported in the literature to be lighter and leaner than their athletic counterparts. Current research regarding nutrition among climbers is sparse but suggests that they may be at high risk for low energy availability and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). The prevalence of amenorrhea, one of the primary indicators of RED-S, is unknown in this athletic population. The purpose of this study was to determine the prevalence of current (previous 12 months) amenorrhea among elite level competitive sport climbers.MethodsAn anonymous online survey was distributed via email to 1,500 female climbers registered as competitors within the International Federation of Sport Climbing to assess the prevalence of amenorrhea over the past 12 months.ResultsA total of 114 female sport climbers answered all survey questions regarding menstrual function and 18 athletes (15.8%) presented with current amenorrhea. The majority of the athletes (72%; n = 82) were categorized with eumenorrhea. An additional 14 athletes (12.3%) provided information that indicated irregular cycles, but answers to all menstrual cycle questions were not congruent to elicit a classification of amenorrhea and these athletes were categorized with a menstrual status of unsure. The average BMI for climbers with eumenorrhea was 20.8 ± 1.8 kg/m2 and 19.9 ± 2.4 kg/m2 for those with amenorrhea. A higher percentage of climbers with amenorrhea revealed they currently struggle with an eating disorder compared to those without amenorrhea (13.5 vs. 22.2%, respectively).ConclusionThis study indicates that some female climbers competing at the World Cup level do have menstrual disturbances with relatively normal BMIs and some currently struggle with one or more eating disorders. Even though World Cup competitions use BMI critical margins to screen competitors, this research highlights the need for more medical supervision of competitive elite female sport climbers in order to protect their overall health, including menstrual function. Further research is required to clarify how many climbers suffer from endocrine abnormalities related to RED-S. With more scientific evidence in this area practitioners will be better equipped to educate the athlete and coach with evidence-based nutrition recommendations.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Joubert

Warme

Larson

et al. 2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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“…Previous studies have suggested that climbing performance is correlated with endurance performance, flexibility, and grip strength relative to body mass [ 1 ]. In addition, elite climbers have significantly lower fat mass percentage [ 2 , 3 , 4 ] and a higher grip strength relative to their body mass and flexibility when compared with controls and non-elite climbers [ 5 , 6 ]. These physical and morphological characteristics are affected by environmental and genetic factors.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Is COL1A1 Gene rs1107946 Polymorphism Associated with Sport Climbing Status and Flexibility?

Ginszt

Semenova

Massidda

et al. 2022

Genes

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The purpose of this study was to compare the frequency of COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism between sport climbers and controls from three ethnic groups (Japanese, Polish, and Russian) and investigate the effect of the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism on the age-related decrease in flexibility in the general population. Study I consisted of 1929 healthy people (controls) and 218 climbers, including Japanese, Polish, and Russian participants. The results of the meta-analysis showed that the frequency of the AC genotype was higher in climbers than in the controls (p = 0.03). Study II involved 1093 healthy Japanese individuals (435 men and 658 women). Flexibility was assessed using a sit-and-reach test. There was a tendency towards association between sit-and-reach and the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism (genotype: p = 0.034; dominant: p = 0.435; recessive: p = 0.035; over-dominant: p = 0.026). In addition, there was a higher negative correlation between sit-and-reach and age in the AA + CC genotype than in the AC genotype (AA + CC: r = −0.216, p < 0.001; AC: r = −0.089, p = 0.04; interaction p = 0.037). However, none of these results survived correction for multiple testing. Further studies are warranted to investigate the association between the COL1A1 gene variation and exercise-related phenotypes.

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“…In elite sport, the anthropometric indices have a major impact on performance [ 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 ] and additionally, there are other factors, such as the preparation level [ 23 , 24 , 25 ], specific preparation [ 26 , 27 , 28 ] and competition experience [ 29 , 30 ], that influence elite sport outcomes.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Toward an Anthropometric Pattern in Elite Male Handball

Leuciuc

Petrariu

Pricop

et al. 2022

IJERPH

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We investigated the anthropometric characteristics associated with specific handball skills in competition. The body anthropometric profiles differ significantly among the playing positions in handball due to the specific tasks. The aim of this study is to identify the anthropometric patterns for each playing position by collecting data from elite male handball players. To determine the anthropometric profile of the elite handball players for each playing position, we used descriptive statistics for every indicator in order to identify the optimal patterns for elite handball players from the top-four ranked teams at the most important competitions over a period of 18 years (2004–2021). Over time, the anthropometric indices evolved: the average height increased (from 190 to 192.6 cm) but less than weight increased (from 90.5 to 95.28 kg), and these affected the body mass index (increase from 25.2 to 25.67). The novelty of our study is that we identified an anthropometric pattern for each playing position and for all teams in elite male handball. Our study also covered a period of 18 years to give our results more accuracy and reliability.

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Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Cited by 17 publications

References 22 publications

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Is COL1A1 Gene rs1107946 Polymorphism Associated with Sport Climbing Status and Flexibility?

Toward an Anthropometric Pattern in Elite Male Handball

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