Application of a Spectral Wave Model to Assess Breakwater Configurations at a Small Craft Harbour on Lake Ontario

Cooper, A.; Mulligan, Ryan P.

doi:10.3390/jmse4030046

Cited by 11 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…Breakwater effects on sediment supply to salt marsh were modelled under different scenarios of waves and tide conditions. This same numerical modelling approach has already been used to investigate the impact of waves on coastal morphology [28,29], estimate the effect of tides on the alternative deposition of mud and sand [30], examine the influence of vegetation on bars evolution [31], and simulate wave propagation in harbors [32].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Impact of Submerged Breakwaters on Sediment Distribution along Marsh Boundaries

Vona

Gray

Nardin

2020

Water

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Human encroachment and development on coastlines have led to greater amounts of armoring of shorelines. Breakwaters are a common feature along coastlines, which are used to dampen wave energy and protect shorelines from flash floods or overwash events. Although common, their effects on sediment transport and marsh geomorphology are poorly understood. To address this gap, our study quantifies the effects of breakwaters on sediment transport and marsh evolution under different wave regimes using Delft3D-SWAN, a dynamic geomorphodynamic numerical model. Model configurations used the same numerical domain, but scenarios had different sediments, waves, tides, basin slopes and breakwater distances from the shoreline to explore how waves and tidal currents shape coastal margins. Model results suggested breakwaters were responsible for an average wave damping between 10–50%, proportional to the significant wave height across all modeled scenarios. Shear stress at the beginning of the marsh and the volume of sediment deposited at the end of the simulation (into the marsh behind the breakwater) increased on average between 20–40%, proportional to the slope and distance of the breakwater from the shoreline. Sediment trapping, defined as the ratio between the volume of sediment housed into the salt marsh behind and away from the breakwater, was found to be less than 1 from most model runs. Study results indicated that breakwaters are advantageous for wave breaking to protect shorelines from the wave’s energy, however, they might also be an obstacle for sediment transport, negatively affecting nourishment processes, and, consequently, impeded long-term salt marsh survival. Identifying a balance between waves dampening and shoreline nourishment should be considered in the design and implementation of these structures.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Impact of Submerged Breakwaters on Sediment Distribution along Marsh Boundaries

Vona

Gray

Nardin

2020

Water

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“…This newly re-designed coastal structure protects the park shoreline and provides a recreational environment on the water. Other coastal structures on this segment of shoreline exist to protect harbours [2] from wind-generated waves in Lake Ontario [3,4].…”

Section: Field Experiencementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Coastal engineering requires understanding of natural wave and shoreline conditions to design structures and ensure a safe coastal environment for enhanced use by society. Marine structures built to attenuate the height and reduce the energy of incoming waves, protecting important areas along a coast such as marinas or harbours [2].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A New Field Exercise for Experiential Learning in Coastal Engineering

Mulligan

Beyer

2019

PCEEA

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A new field exercise is developed for a technical course in coastal engineering. This exercise consists of detailed wave measurements surrounding a newly designed coastal structure, with the objective of improving learning by situating student engineering design skills into a real-world context. Students integrated the field measurement results with estimates of the wave conditions developed from predictive equations and a computer model. The written deliverable requires students to critically assess the data and model results acquired from different sources. They were evaluated using a rubric designed to assess cognitive and communication skills. The exercise mimics what engineers do in practice, and helps students learn how to approach real problems in coastal engineering.

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“…The hydrodynamics of Lake Ontario have been simulated on various scales in previous studies (e.g., Huang et al, 2010;Paturi et al, 2012;Prakesh et al, 2007;Shore, 2009). Numerical models have also been used to simulate waves and circulation during extreme events in the Kingston Basin (Cooper and Mulligan, 2016;McCombs et al, 2014a;McCombs et al, 2014b). Sogut et al (2019) used a combination of analyzing historical water level and wave data, as well as numerical modelling of extreme storm events to gain insight on lake seiching, storm surges, and wave patterns.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development and performance of a high-resolution surface wave and storm surge forecast model (COASTLINES-LO): Application to a large lake

Swatridge,

Mulligan,

Boegman

et al. 2023

Preprint

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Abstract. An automated real-time forecast model of surface hydrodynamics in Lake Ontario (Coastlines-LO) was developed to predict storm surge and surface waves. The system uses a dynamically coupled Delft3D – SWAN model with a structured grid to generate 48 h predictions for the lake that are updated every 6 h. The lake surface is forced with meteorological data from the High Resolution Deterministic Prediction System (HRDPS). The forecast model has been running since May 2021, capturing a wide variety of storm conditions. Good agreement between observations and modelled results is achieved, with root mean squared errors (RMSE) for water levels and waves under 0.02 m and 0.26 m, respectively. During storm events, the magnitude and timing of storm surges are accurately predicted at 9 monitoring stations (RMSE < 0.05 m), with model accuracy either improving or remaining consistent with decreasing forecast length. Forecast significant wave heights agree with observed data (1–12 % relative error for peak wave heights) at 4 wave buoys in the lake. Coastlines-LO forecasts for storm surge prediction for two consecutive storm events were compared to those from the Great Lakes Coastal Forecasting System (GLCFS) to further evaluate model performance. Both systems achieved comparable results with average RMSEs of 0.02 m. Coastlines-LO is an open-source wrapper code driven by open-data and has a relatively low computational demand, compared to GLCFS, making this approach suitable for forecasting marine conditions in other coastal regions.

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Application of a Spectral Wave Model to Assess Breakwater Configurations at a Small Craft Harbour on Lake Ontario

Cited by 11 publications

References 16 publications

The Impact of Submerged Breakwaters on Sediment Distribution along Marsh Boundaries

The Impact of Submerged Breakwaters on Sediment Distribution along Marsh Boundaries

A New Field Exercise for Experiential Learning in Coastal Engineering

Development and performance of a high-resolution surface wave and storm surge forecast model (COASTLINES-LO): Application to a large lake

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