Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film‐forming effect of cosmetic formulations

Melo, Maísa Oliveira de; Campos, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia

doi:10.1111/ics.12577

Cited by 17 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…The diversity of indications for FFS topical treatments implies the need for comprehensive research, going way beyond the physicochemical requirements to include the in vivo assessment of the biophysical properties of the skin [19][20][21]. However, as the existing standard methods, i.e., ISO and ASTM guidelines [22][23][24][25], are mainly designed for testing thin films produced by and used in industries other than the pharmaceutical industry, this paper deals with the obvious lack of characterization techniques suitable for topical films, suggesting a set of methods aiming to provide a comprehensive notion of FFS skin performance.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Physico-Mechanical and In Vivo Assessment towards Factual Skin Performance Profile of Topical Polymeric Film-Forming Systems

et al. 2022

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Topical film-forming systems (FFS) change drastically after solvent displacement, therefore indicating their skin metamorphosis/transformation as a property of special regulatory and research interest. This paper deals with the lack of suitable characterization techniques, suggesting a set of methods able to provide a comprehensive notion of FFS skin performance. After screening the physico-chemical, mechanical and sensory properties of FFS and resulting films, an elaborate three-phase in vivo study was performed, covering skin irritation, friction and substantivity. Upon removal of 24-hour occlusion, no significant change in erythema index was observed, while the film-former type (cellulose ether, acrylate and/or vinyl polymer) affected transepidermal water loss (TEWL); hydrophobic methacrylate copolymer-based samples decreased TEWL by 40–50%, suggesting a semi-occlusive effect. Although both the tribological parameters related to the friction coefficient and the friction curve’s plateau provided valuable data, their analysis indicated the importance of the moment the plateau is reached as the onset of the secondary formulation, while the tertiary state is still best described by the completion of the film’s drying time. The final part of the in vivo study proved the high in-use substantivity of all samples but confirmed the optimal 4:1 ratio of hydrophobic cationic and hydrophilic polymers, as indicated during early physico-mechanical screening.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Physico-Mechanical and In Vivo Assessment towards Factual Skin Performance Profile of Topical Polymeric Film-Forming Systems

et al. 2022

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“…They are used as a base material of creams and ointments for treatment of 'dry skin', one of the common symptoms in dermatology [5]. Oils cause a prominent reduction of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) due to the film formation [6] and skin surface occlusion and skin barrier enhancements [7,8] and, thus, increase the water concentration in the stratum corneum (SC) that gives rise to thickening of corneocytes, known as a swelling effect. For instance, topical application of petrolatum increases the SC thickness by %32% and decreases the TEWL [8][9][10], while paraffin and plant-derived oils, as for example almond and jojoba oils, showed modest (10-20%) [10] or no swelling effects [9] and no changes in TEWL [8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Choe¹,

Schleusener

Choe³

et al. 2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown. Methods The action of plant‐derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral‐derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils’ influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth‐dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated. Results A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum‐treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil‐treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40–70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0–30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil‐treated skin was significantly lower at 50–70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil‐treated skin was lower at 0–30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β‐sheet content in mineral‐derived oil‐treated skin and changed towards an increase of α‐helix content in plant‐derived oil‐treated skin. Conclusion The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC’s water‐transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non‐swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

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“…The stratum corneum water content (hydration) was determined using a non-invasive skin capacitance meter Corneometer ® CM 825 (Courage & Khazaka, Cologne, Germany), which measures the capacitance that is entirely dependent on the water content in the skin. Different capacitance changes are converted into a digitally measured value (arbitrary units) that is proportional to the skin humidity, and results are given in arbitrary units (AU) which are estimated to correspond to 1 AU in 0.2–0.9 mg of water per gram of the stratum corneum [ 15 ].…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evaluation of Morphological and Structural Skin Alterations on Diabetic Subjects by Biophysical and Imaging Techniques

Moraes

Melo

Campos

2023

Life

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Diabetes causes increased production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which may lead to irreversible damage to collagen fibers, and early and more accentuated signs of skin aging. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate diabetic skin’s mechanical and morphological characteristics and compare these to healthy skin. Twenty-eight female participants aged between 39 and 55 years were enrolled: half had type 2 diabetes, and the others were healthy. Wrinkles, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin color, elasticity, morphological and structural characteristics of epidermis and dermis echogenicity were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Higher TEWL values were observed in participants with diabetes, who also showed lower skin elasticity and wrinkles with greater volume, area, and depth. In addition, the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) imaging analysis showed that all participants with diabetes presented polycyclic papillae and deformed and amorphous collagen fibers. The obtained data showed significant differences between healthy and diabetic skin and could help develop more specific topical treatments to improve the treatment of skin conditions in people with diabetes. Finally, RCM is an advanced imaging technique that allows for a more profound analysis of diabetic skin, which could assist in the evaluation of dermocosmetic treatments to improve the skin alterations caused by this disease.

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Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film‐forming effect of cosmetic formulations

Cited by 17 publications

References 24 publications

Simultaneous Physico-Mechanical and In Vivo Assessment towards Factual Skin Performance Profile of Topical Polymeric Film-Forming Systems

Simultaneous Physico-Mechanical and In Vivo Assessment towards Factual Skin Performance Profile of Topical Polymeric Film-Forming Systems

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Evaluation of Morphological and Structural Skin Alterations on Diabetic Subjects by Biophysical and Imaging Techniques

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