Augmented bio-based lipids for cosmetics

Duprat-de-Paule, Sébastien; Guilbot, Jérôme; Roso, Alicia; Cambos, Sophie; Aupert, Pierre

doi:10.1051/ocl/2018036

Cited by 19 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…It is an aliphatic ester without unsaturation and, therefore, very stable. Moreover, it shows high solubilizing power against lipophilic molecules and exhibits remarkable “skin feel” properties, probably due to its structural similarity with the lipid portions of the epidermis and mucosal epithelia [ 19 ]. It is widely used as a mixture under the INCI name of “cetyl esters” and as a component of mixtures of esters obtained from the processing of vegetable oils (see Cocoyl Caprylocaprate European Pharmacopoeia monograph, Ph.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Solid and Semisolid Innovative Formulations Containing Miconazole-Loaded Solid Lipid Microparticles to Promote Drug Entrapment into the Buccal Mucosa

Giannola

Prima

2021

Pharmaceutics

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The currently available antifungal therapy for oral candidiasis (OC) has various limitations restricting its clinical use, such as short retention time, suboptimal drug concentration and low patients compliance. These issues could be overcome using micro or nanotechnology. In particular, solid lipid microparticles (SLMs) resulted as a particularly promising penetration enhancer carrier for lipophilic drugs, such as the antifungal miconazole (MCZ). Based on these considerations, cetyl decanoate (here synthesized without the use of metal catalysis) was employed together with 1-hexadecanol to prepare MCZ-loaded SLMs. These resulted in a powder composed of 45–300 µm diameter solid spherical particles, able to load a high amount of MCZ in the amorphous form and characterized by a melting temperature range perfectly compatible with oromucosal administration (35–37 °C). Moreover, when compared to Daktarin® 2% oral gel in ex vivo experiments, SLMs were able to increase up to three-fold MCZ accumulation into the porcine buccal mucosa. The prepared SLMs were then loaded into a buccal gel or a microcomposite mucoadhesive buccal film and evaluated in terms of MCZ permeation and/or accumulation into porcine buccal mucosa by using lower doses than the conventional dosage form. The promising results obtained highlighted an enhancement in terms of MCZ accumulation even at low doses. Furthermore, the prepared buccal film was eligible as stable, reproducible and also highly mucoadhesive. Therefore, the formulated SLMs represent a penetration enhancer vehicle suitable to reduce the dose of lipophilic drugs to be administered to achieve the desired therapeutic effects, as well as being able to be effectively embedded into easily administrable solid or semisolid dosage forms.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Solid and Semisolid Innovative Formulations Containing Miconazole-Loaded Solid Lipid Microparticles to Promote Drug Entrapment into the Buccal Mucosa

Giannola

Prima

2021

Pharmaceutics

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“…However, CG 1% in 50% aq./50% eth., as received by the manufacturer of the body lotion, has a low pH of 3.3, indicating that a smaller amount of negatively charged CG is present, hence ensuring better skin penetration and thus potentially provoking a (possibly stronger) positive patch test reaction. Moreover, bearing in mind that CG is used in cosmetics up to a maximum concentration of 2%, higher test concentrations than 1% might be necessary . Altogether, when patch tests in general are performed, and with CG in particular, it is useful to question which particular vehicle and concentration might be the most appropriate ones to use.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Capryloyl glycine: A polyfunctional cosmetic ingredient and potential skin sensitizer

et al. 2019

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K E Y W O R D S : allergic contact dermatitis, amino acid alkyl amides, capryloyl glycine, CAS no. 14246-53-8, case report, cosmetics, preservative, surfactant, skin conditioning agent Amino acid alkyl amides (AAAAs) are polyfunctional cosmetic ingredients, some of which also have preservative properties. Here, we report a case of allergic contact dermatitis caused by a body lotion containing an AAAA, namely, capryloyl glycine (CG) (synonyms: caprylyl glycine and N-octanoylglycine; CAS no. 14246-53-8) ( Figure 1). CASE REPORTA 50-year-old atopic man, who was known to have hand dermatitis and who had recently been diagnosed with contact allergy to methylisothiazolinone (MI), methylchloroisothiazolinone/MI, fragrances (Myroxylon pereirae and fragrance mix II), and ricinus oil, developed an itchy, papular skin eruption on his arms and legs after the application of a body lotion (Figure 2A,B). He had also suffered from a similar skin eruption after the use of two sunscreens. However, none of these products contained any of his known contact allergens, so he was referred to us for additional patch tests. These were performed with the three suspected products, tested "as is," along with the separate ingredients of the body lotion, kindly provided by the manufacturer (L'Oréal, Clichy, France), a photopatch series (Chemotechnique Diagnostics, Vellinge, Sweden), and ingredients of the suncreens that were commercially available as patch test preparations. Allergeaze patch test chambers (SmartPractice, Calgary, Canada) were used, and, following occlusion for 2 days with Fixomull stretch (BSN Medical, Hamburg, Germany), all tests were read, according to published guidelines, on day (D) 2, D4, and D7. 1 The photopatch tests were occluded for 2 days, and, upon removal, one of two identical series was irradiated with 5 J/cm 2 ultraviolet (UV) A; readings were performed on D2, D4 and D7 following application of these tests. Positive patch test reactions were observed to the body lotion (++), and to its ingredient CG 1% 50% aq./50% ethanol. (+) (Figure 3). A repeated patch test with this allergen confirmed the positive reaction, with the same degree of reactivity (+). An additional patch test with CG 1% aq., retrieved from a different cosmetic company, gave only a doubtful reaction (?+). Twenty control patients had completely negative test results with both CG 1% aq. and CG 1% 50% aq./50% eth. Our patient also had positive reactions to patch tests with the two sunscreens (+), although to a lesser extent (?+) when these were irradiated with UVA, and to the chemical filter benzophenone-10 (+), which, according to the packaging, was not present in these products. As both sunscreens contained caprylic/capric triglyceride, that is, glycerol esterified with one part capric acid and two parts caprylic acid, the latter being an acid that is also used in the manufacture of CG, additional tests were performed with caprylic/capric triglyceride (10% pet.; obtained from Pierre Fabre, Paris, France); however, these did not yield a positive rea...

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“…Lipids in cosmetics can be used directly as active ingredients to improve skin appearance (Rabasco Alvarez, González Rodríguez, & Rodríguez, 2000). Emulsions in cosmetic products contain a large variety of oils (Duprat-de-Paule et al, 2018). From seaweed sources, few studies show their direct use in cosmetics (Fabrowska et al, 2017).…”

Section: Skin Carementioning

confidence: 99%

Algal Derived Functional Lipids and their Role in Promoting Health

Terme

Chénais

Fournière

et al. 2021

Recent Advances in Micro and Macroalgal Processing

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Algae are organisms with an enormous biodiversity and contain manifold fatty acid molecular structures and ratios. This chapter presents information about the structure and distribution of fatty acids in algae whether microalgae or macroalgae. The parameters affecting lipid and fatty acid contents as well as distribution are also discussed. Methods for isolation and purification of fatty acids from algae to obtain highly pure fatty acid or fatty acid fractions with good overall yields are presented. Algal fatty acids are known as sources of bioactive compounds for health promotion and wellness. Lipid fractions and fatty acids act as actives or additives for cosmeceutical applications. For health promotion, preventive effects of n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids on cardiovascular disease, metabolic syndrome and cancer are discussed. The role of n-3 fatty acids in cancer therapy and antiviral activities of lipids are also exposed. Furthermore, potential commercial application domains and concepts are discussed in this chapter.

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Augmented bio-based lipids for cosmetics

Cited by 19 publications

References 11 publications

Solid and Semisolid Innovative Formulations Containing Miconazole-Loaded Solid Lipid Microparticles to Promote Drug Entrapment into the Buccal Mucosa

Solid and Semisolid Innovative Formulations Containing Miconazole-Loaded Solid Lipid Microparticles to Promote Drug Entrapment into the Buccal Mucosa

Capryloyl glycine: A polyfunctional cosmetic ingredient and potential skin sensitizer

Algal Derived Functional Lipids and their Role in Promoting Health

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