Biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials for cosmetics and personal care markets

Abstract

SynopsisThe topical and transdermal delivery of active cosmetic ingredients requires safe and non-toxic means of reaching the target sites without causing any irritation. Preservation of the active ingredients is also essential during formulation, storage and application of the final product. As many biologically active substances are not stable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation, they require encapsulation to protect against unwanted degradation and also to target specific and controlled release of the active substance. The use of biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials offers several advantages over other carrier materials. Encapsulation of active ingredients using biodegradable polymeric carriers can facilitate increased efficacy and bioavailability and they are also removed from the body via normal metabolic pathways. This article reviews current research on biodegradable polymers as carrier or encapsulation materials for cosmetic and personal care applications. Some of the challenges and limitations are also discussed. Examples of biodegradable polymers reviewed include polysaccharides, poly a-esters, polyalkylcyanoacrylates and polyamidoamine dendrimers. Ré suméL'administration topique et transdermique de principes actifs cosmétiques exige des moyens sû rs et non toxiques pour atteindre les sites cibles sans causer d' irritation. La préservation des ingrédients actifs est également essentielle au cours de la formulation, du stockage et de l'application du produit final. Étant donné que beaucoup de substances biologiquement actives ne sont pas stables et sensibles à la température, le pH, la lumière et l'oxydation, elles ont besoin d'encapsulation pour les protéger contre la dégradation indésirable et également de cibler la libération spécifique et contrôlée de la substance active. L'utilisation de polymères biodégrad-ables comme matériaux d'encapsulationoffre plusieurs avantages par rapport aux autres matériaux porteurs. L'encapsulation des ingrédients actifs à l'aide des supports polymères biodégradables peut faciliter l'augmentation de l'efficacité et de la biodisponibilité; ceux-cisont également éliminés de l'organisme par l'intermédiaire des voies métaboliques normales. Cet article passe en revue les recherches actuelles sur les polymères biodégradables comme matériaux de support ou d'encapsulation pour les cosmétiques et les applications de soins personnels. Les défis et les limites sont également discutés. Des exemples de polymères biodégradables passés en revue comprennent des polysaccharides, des poly-a-esters, des polyalkylcyanoacrylates et les polyamidoaminedendrimères.

Encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients for topical application – a review

“…At the same time the compound should still have the lipophilic or hydrophilic characteristics that allow its solubilization in the cosmetic itself and ensure its stability during formulation, storage and application of the product. (Jain et al, 2006;Ammala, 2013;Forster 2009;Wiechers 2005;Barry, 2002;Muller et al, 2002;Muller et al, 2000) Critical aspects should be considered when delivering a cosmetic active ingredient through the skin, such as the right site of action of the cosmetic ingredient, the right concentration of the components, and the correct application time of the product on the skin. It should be considered the influence of the formulation type, formulation polarity, stratum corneum polarity, skin lipid organization and the influence of droplet size on skin delivery.…”

Relation between biophysical properties of nanostructures and their toxicity on zebrafish

“…Controlled drug delivery and tissue targeted therapy Kesharwani et al 2014 Penetration enhancers Yang et al 2013 In vitro gene transfection and in vivo gene therapy Yang et al 2015 Additives in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries Ammala et al 2013 Medical imaging and early diagnostics Qiao et al 2015 Analytical sensors and chelating agent of metals Hasanzadeh et al 2014 Antimicrobial and antiviral properties Reddy and Babu 2016 Anti-inflammatory properties Neibert et al 2013 enhancers. In addition, the core-shell architecture of dendrimers facilitates host-guest entrapment, allowing their use as drug delivery systems.…”

Bacterial Polysaccharides: Production and Applications in Cosmetic Industry

“…The dermis is composed of collagen and glycosaminoglycans and contains blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles. The hypodermis or subcutaneous layer consists of adipose tissue and provides a thermal barrier (Ammala 2013;Elias 2001). The stratum corneum is a highly impermeable lipophilic layer that protects the inner layers from environmental influence.…”

“…The degree of hydration of the stratum corneum influences the skin's permeability. Moreover, the skin barrier function is influenced by age and external factors, and it also varies at different body locations (Ammala 2013). For example, after the age of 20 years, the amount of naturally occurring HA in the human skin continuously decreases, which results in decreased tissue elasticity and hydration, and contributes to the formation of wrinkles (Berkó et al 2013).…”

“…This is advantageous for use in cosmetics applications. Moreover, biodegradable polymers are usually nonreactive with the human body and their degradation products are also biocompatible (Ammala 2013).…”