Biotechnological Advances in Cosmetic Industry

Desai, Sneha Sawant; Mane, Varsha Kelkar

doi:10.1002/9781119792888.ch3

Cited by 2 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 107 publications

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“…Our results are in line with those reported in literature on carotenoids extracted from different strains, such as astaxanthin (Mourelle et al 2017;Dutta et al 2023), lutein (Jiang et al 2024), and β-carotene (Yeager and Lim 2019). Accordingly, microalgae extracts are currently being formulated into skin-care products for providing anti-aging, moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-irritant benefits (Desai and Mane 2024). The lipids isolated from the residual biomass belong to saturated fatty acids, a neglected class of lipids which are now more considered, as they can find application as antibacterial molecules, in cosmetics and in drug delivery (Liberti et al 2022).…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 91%

“…It is well known that carotenoids can exert a potent antioxidant activity, thus protecting skin cells from stress agents and improving skin appearance (Mussagy et al 2023). Lutein, the most abundant one, is a high added value carotenoid with reported anticancer, antibacterial, anti-neurodegenerative, and anti-inflammatory activities (Desai and Mane 2024), sold at 455,000 €/g. The obtained extract shows a strong antioxidant activity and can activate the Nrf2 pathway, which has been primarily identified as a key player in the antioxidant response.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Unveiling the potential of Pseudococcomyxa simplex: a stepwise extraction for cosmetic applications

Imbimbo,

Giustino,

Ferrara

et al. 2024

Appl Microbiol Biotechnol

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Microalgae are gaining attention as they are considered green fabrics able to synthesize many bioactive metabolites, with unique biological activities. However, their use at an industrial scale is still a challenge because of the high costs related to upstream and downstream processes. Here, a biorefinery approach was proposed, starting from the biomass of the green microalga Pseudococcomyxa simplex for the extraction of two classes of molecules with a potential use in the cosmetic industry. Carotenoids were extracted first by an ultrasound-assisted extraction, and then, from the residual biomass, lipids were obtained by a conventional extraction. The chemical characterization of the ethanol extract indicated lutein, a biosynthetic derivative of α-carotene, as the most abundant carotenoid. The extract was found to be fully biocompatible on a cell-based model, active as antioxidant and with an in vitro anti-aging property. In particular, the lutein-enriched fraction was able to activate Nrf2 pathway, which plays a key role also in aging process. Finally, lipids were isolated from the residual biomass and the isolated fatty acids fraction was composed by palmitic and stearic acids. These molecules, fully biocompatible, can find application as emulsifiers and softener agents in cosmetic formulations. Thus, an untapped microalgal species can represent a sustainable source for cosmeceutical formulations. Key points • Pseudococcomyxa simplex has been explored in a cascade approach. • Lutein is the main extracted carotenoid and has antioxidant and anti-aging activity. • Fatty acids are mainly composed of palmitic and stearic acids. Graphical abstract

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