Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents in the SandyDuck experiment under directional random wave conditions

Choi, Junwoo; Kirby, James T.; Yoon, Sung Bum

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.04.005

Cited by 32 publications

(19 citation statements)

References 57 publications

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“…SandyDuck 현장실험은 1997년 North Carolina의 미공병 단 FRF 시설이 있는 해변에서 수행되었으며, 3시간 단위로 일정한 지점에서 수위, 유속, 지형변동이 계측된 자료들을 제 공하였다 (Noyes et al, 2004). Choi et al(2015)…”

Section: 모형 Set-upunclassified

Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

Choi¹

2015

Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers

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Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

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Section: 모형 Set-upunclassified

Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

Choi¹

2015

Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers

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“…This result was improved in [72] to β ≈ 0.555 (taking into consideration the shoaling effects as well). However, it was shown later that this theoretical 'improvement' is immaterial when it comes to the description of real sea states [18].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dispersive Shallow Water Wave Modelling. Part I: Model Derivation on a Globally Flat Space

Khakimzyanov¹,

Dutykh²,

Fedotova³

et al. 2018

CICP

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Dispersive shallow water wave modelling. Part I: Model derivation on a globally flat space arXiv.org / hal Abstract. In this paper we review the history and current state-of-the-art in modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and improved Boussinesqtype and Serre-Green-Naghdi equations. Finally, we propose also a unified modelling framework which incorporates several well-known and some less known dispersive wave models. The present manuscript is the first part of a series of two papers. The second part will be devoted to the numerical discretization of a practically important model on moving adaptive grids.

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“…The rip current warning system estimates the rip current risk level based on the real-time incident wave conditions measured near the beach and the database pre-calculated by a numerical model according to various wave and tide conditions and the topography of the Haeundae coast. The Boussinesq wave model, FUNWAVE (Wei et al, 1999;Choi et al, 2015) was utilized for resolving the ends of the wave crests. This study showed the performance of the forecast and warning system of the rip current at the Haeundae coast of South Korea.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Performances of the Rip Current Warning System at the Haeundae Coast of South Korea

Choi¹,

Yoon²,

Ko³

et al. 2018

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Haeundae is one of the most beautiful beaches in Korea, and is also notorious for frequent and strong rip currents. Every recent year in this beach, hundreds of swimmers rescued from rip currents have been reported. The large-scale Haeundae rip current is known to be a kind of transient rip currents which is hardly predicted. The successive ends of wave-crest pattern (i.e., honeycomb wave-crest pattern(Dalrymple et al., 2011)), which generate rip current, are mainly formed by two-directional wave trains due to the refraction of incident swells over submerged shoals and ridges of the Haeundae coast. Many people are caught by the rip current in the relatively calm sea and weather conditions. The incident waves generating rip currents are nearly monochromatic with the wave period of 7-13 seconds. These swells are supposed to be generated by distant typhoons formed in the Philippine Sea. Some of them might propagate with dispersion and dissipation during the travel toward the south coast of the Korean Peninsula, especially to the Haeundae coast. In order to protect the swimmers from the rip current accidents, Choi et al. (2014) proposed a method for a rip current warning system, and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration (KHOA) has established and operated the rip current warning system to the Haeundae beach. The rip current warning system estimates the rip current risk level based on the real-time incident wave conditions measured near the beach and the database pre-calculated by a numerical model according to various wave and tide conditions and the topography of the Haeundae coast. The Boussinesq wave model, FUNWAVE (Wei et al., 1999; Choi et al., 2015) was utilized for resolving the ends of the wave crests. This study showed the performance of the forecast and warning system of the rip current at the Haeundae coast of South Korea.

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Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents in the SandyDuck experiment under directional random wave conditions

Cited by 32 publications

References 57 publications

Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

Dispersive Shallow Water Wave Modelling. Part I: Model Derivation on a Globally Flat Space

Performances of the Rip Current Warning System at the Haeundae Coast of South Korea

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