Buoy observations of the influence of swell on wind waves in the open ocean

Violante-Carvalho, Nelson; Ocampo‐Torres, Francisco J.; Robinson, I. S.

doi:10.1016/j.apor.2003.11.002

Cited by 43 publications

(21 citation statements)

References 30 publications

(45 reference statements)

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“…Most conspicuous is the spurious amplification of wind sea growth in the presence of swell (e.g. van Vledder and Hurdle 2002), which is contrary to all observations (Dobson et al 1989;Violante-Carvalho et al 2004;Ardhuin et al 2007). Associated wih that defect also comes an underestimation of the energy level in the inertial range, making these wave models ill-suited for remote sensing applications, as will be exposed below.…”

Section: B Shortcomings Of Existing Parameterizationscontrasting

confidence: 50%

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Ardhuin

Rogers

Babanin

et al. 2010

Journal of Physical Oceanography

800

681

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New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations probably yield the most accurate overall estimate of wave parameters to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

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Section: B Shortcomings Of Existing Parameterizationscontrasting

confidence: 50%

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Ardhuin

Rogers

Babanin

et al. 2010

Journal of Physical Oceanography

800

681

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…waves that are generated nearby but are associated with longer fetches and are generally more energetic compared to the local wind sea (e.g. Violante-Carvalho et al 2004).…”

Section: Deep Water Wave Hindcastmentioning

confidence: 99%

Shoreline evolution under climate change wave scenarios

Zacharioudaki

Reeve

2011

Climatic Change

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This paper investigates changes in shoreline evolution caused by changes in wave climate. In particular, a number of nearshore wave climate scenarios corresponding to a 'present' (1961-1990) and a future time-slice (2071-2100) are used to drive a beach evolution model to determine monthly and seasonal statistics. To limit the number of variables, an idealised shoreline segment is adopted. The nearshore wave climate scenarios are generated from wind climate scenarios through point wave hindcast and inshore transformation. The original wind forcing comes from regional climate change model experiments of different resolutions and/or driving global climate models, representing different greenhouse-gas emission scenarios. It corresponds to a location offshore the south central coast of England. Hypothesis tests are applied to map the degree of evidence of future change in wave and shoreline statistics relative to the present. Differential statistics resulting from different global climate models and future emission scenarios are also investigated. Further, simple, fast, and straightforward methods that are capable of accommodating a great number of climate change scenarios with limited data reduction requirements are proposed to tackle the problem under consideration. The results of this study show that there are statistically significant changes in nearshore wave climate conditions and beach alignment between current and future climate scenarios. Changes are most notable during late summer for the medium-high future emission scenario and late winter for the medium-low. Despite frequent disagreement between global climate change models on the statistical significance of a change, all experiments agreed in future seasonal trends. Finally, a point of importance for coastal management, A. Zacharioudaki (B)

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“…This approach was used later by researchers to combine and modify available standard nondirectional spectra e.g. PiersonMoskowitz or JONSWAP resulting in the well-known double peak spectra like Ochi-Hubble model and Torsethaugen model (Ochi and Hubble, 1976;Guedes Soares, 1984;Torsethaugen, 1993;Moon and Oh, 1998;Violante-Carvalho et al, 2004;Torsethaugen and Haver, 2004;Mackay, 2011).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%