Characterization of dyestuffs in ancient textiles from Xinjiang

Zhang, Xian; Good, Irene; Laursen, Richard A.

doi:10.1016/j.jas.2007.08.001

Cited by 73 publications

(48 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…The phenolic compounds extracted from these samples absorb in the region of spectra below 350 nm, confirming their flavone structure, and their elution pattern and mass spectra correspond to the luteolin, apigenin and chrysoeriol derivatives reported in weld extracts [18,32,37]. Usually, not all the compounds identified in weld plant extracts can be identified in the historical textile samples.…”

Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 56%

“…Dye analysis is usually performed by liquid chromatography with a diode array detector [6][7][8][9][10][11], but nowadays, mass detection is becoming increasingly important [12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19][20]. A successful approach to identify natural dyes requires that, prior to the chromatographic analysis, an adequate analytical methodology is used for their extraction from the textile fibres.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

et al. 2011

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The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye's main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na 2 EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.

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Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 56%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

et al. 2011

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“…The internal standard (IS), rutin (8), stock solution had the concentration of 61 mg/mL. Calibration curves were analysed plotting concentrations of each flavonoid as a function of peak area ratio flavonoid/rutin.…”

Section: Preparation Of Standard Solutions For Linearity and Calibratmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The evaluation of weld yellow dyestuff content is normally performed by the quantification of luteolins (luteolin and its glycosides). However, since apigenin and apigenin 7-O-glucoside are always present in weld in considerable amounts (Table 5), and some works that analyse yellow dye compounds recovered from textiles also refer to the presence of these flavonoids [5,8], we have considered that weld dye capacity depends on the total amount of free and glycosylated luteolin and apigenin. The dye capacity of weld samples analysed was evaluated by quantifying dyestuff content (%) and dye yield (the total dyestuff amount produced by plant dry weight) (Tables 5 and 6).…”

Section: Dye Capacity Evaluationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of soil fertility on dye flavonoids production in weld (Reseda luteola L.) accessions from Portugal

Gaspar

Moiteiro

Turkman

et al. 2009

J of Separation Science

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A HPLC-diode array detector (DAD) methodology was developed to allow the simultaneous identification and quantification of Reseda luteola L. (weld) dye flavonoids, luteolin, apigenin, luteolin 7-O-glucoside, apigenin 7-O-glucoside, luteolin 3 0 ,7-O-diglucoside and luteolin 4 0 -O-glucoside. The method was validated with excellent results in linearity, sensibility, accuracy and precision. This method was applied to evaluate the influence of soil fertility on the production of weld dye flavonoids. The results showed that weld dye capacity is dependent on soil fertility and the origin of seeds. This method proved its reproducibility and can be used to evaluate the dyeing potential of R. luteola samples in a simple and accurate way.

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“…Natural organic colouring materials used in objects of the cultural heritage are identified by electrochemical methods [18][19][20] and more commonly by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) equipped with diode array detector (DAD) [21][22][23][24][25][26][27][28][29][30][31] and/or mass spectrometry (MS) [32][33][34][35][36][37][38][39][40][41][42][43][44][45]; HPLC with fluorescence detection has been also used [46]. Prior to HPLC analysis, samples have to be treated to extract and solubilise the contained dyestuffs.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%