Characterization of Polysaccharidic Associations for Cosmetic Use: Rheology and Texture Analysis

Abstract

As public attention on sustainability is increasing, the use of polysaccharides as rheological modifiers in skin-care products is becoming the first choice. Polysaccharide associations can be used to increase the spreading properties of products and to optimize their sensorial profile. Since the choice of natural raw materials for cosmetics is wide, instrumental methodologies are useful for formulators to easily characterize the materials and to create mixtures with specific applicative properties. In this work, we performed rheological and texture analyses on samples formulated with binary and ternary associations of polysaccharides to investigate their structural and mechanical features as a function of the concentration ratios. The rheological measurements were conducted under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer. An immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a texture analyzer allowed us to measure some textural parameters. Sclerotium gum and iota-carrageenan imparted high viscosity, elasticity, and firmness in the system; carob gum and pectin influenced the viscoelastic properties and determined high adhesiveness and cohesiveness. The results indicated that these natural polymers combined in appropriate ratios can provide a wide range of different textures and that the use of these two complementary techniques represents a valid pre-screening tool for the formulation of green products.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

“…This effect is observed when a spherical shape is detangled by polymer chains and the droplets begin to deform, forming an ellipsoidal shape. Moreover, layer formation, due to aggregate breaking into elemental constituents, is concurring with the shear plane, decreasing the overall flow resistance [1,2,83,84]. This shear-thinning behaviour was observed for emulsions stabilized by other polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum and guar gum [83,85].…”

“…The sample was placed in a female conic holder and was compressed 11 mm of depth (which represented a sample deformation of around 70%); this procedure was done twice by a male conic probe at a speed of 2 mm/s. The samples' mechanical parameters were determined from the force-displacement curve: the firmness corresponded to the highest force value attained by the sample during the first compression; the consistency was calculated by the area under the curve of the first compression; the cohesiveness was determined through the ratio of the areas under the curve from the first and the second compressions; and the adhesiveness was determined from the area under the curve from the negative peak attained after the first compression [1,2].…”

“…The cosmetics industry's interest in moving towards sustainability has significantly increased the incorporation of natural polymers into cosmetic formulations. Among those, many polysaccharides have properties similar to non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, which makes them environmentally friendly alternative raw materials [1,2]. Specifically, bacterial polysaccharides can be used in formulations as moisturizing agents, thickeners, stabilizers and texturizers, acting as a biocompatible and biodegradable component that protect and maintain the skin and improves the formulations efficacy [2,3].…”

“…Among those, many polysaccharides have properties similar to non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, which makes them environmentally friendly alternative raw materials [1,2]. Specifically, bacterial polysaccharides can be used in formulations as moisturizing agents, thickeners, stabilizers and texturizers, acting as a biocompatible and biodegradable component that protect and maintain the skin and improves the formulations efficacy [2,3]. Emulsions, usually used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries, are the most common type of skincare products due to their appealing feeling on the skin and ease of application [3,4].…”

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

“…Carrageenans are commonly used in cosmetics as stabilizing, thickening, and gelling agents due to their excellent properties, such as gel-forming ability and chemical stability [27,30,58,301]. The rheological behavior of carrageenan and hybrid carrageenans is temperature sensitive and also depends on the structure, sulfate content, or molecular weight [28,302,303]. Carrageenans can be degraded by carrageenases to produce a number of even-numbered carrageenan oligosaccharides, which exhibit different attractive functions, such as anti-inflammation, anti-tumor, anticoagulation, or antithrombosis effects [304].…”