Characterizing historical textiles and clothing with proteomics

Solazzo, Caroline

doi:10.14568/cp2018031

Cited by 24 publications

(15 citation statements)

References 86 publications

(122 reference statements)

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Although these tissues are not composed of one dominant protein, keratin and CBP mixtures can be taxonomically identified using PMF ( 108 , 109 ). Keratin markers have been developed for a few dozen mammal species ( 108 – 113 ), while CBP markers have only been developed for sea turtles ( 114 , 115 ). However, human and sheep keratins are also common contaminants in proteomics research, as human epithelial keratins are the primary constituents of airborne dust ( 116 ) and wool is a common component of clothing ( 68 , 117 ).…”

Section: Zooms: Methods and State Of The Fieldmentioning

confidence: 99%

A primer for ZooMS applications in archaeology

Warinner

2022

Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Collagen peptide mass fingerprinting by matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight (MALDI-TOF) mass spectrometry, also known as zooarchaeology by mass spectrometry (ZooMS), is a rapidly growing analytical technique in the fields of archaeology, ecology, and cultural heritage. Minimally destructive and cost effective, ZooMS enables rapid taxonomic identification of large bone assemblages, cultural heritage objects, and other organic materials of animal origin. As its importance grows as both a research and a conservation tool, it is critical to ensure that its expanding body of users understands its fundamental principles, strengths, and limitations. Here, we outline the basic functionality of ZooMS and provide guidance on interpreting collagen spectra from archaeological bones. We further examine the growing potential of applying ZooMS to nonmammalian assemblages, discuss available options for minimally and nondestructive analyses, and explore the potential for peptide mass fingerprinting to be expanded to noncollagenous proteins. We describe the current limitations of the method regarding accessibility, and we propose solutions for the future. Finally, we review the explosive growth of ZooMS over the past decade and highlight the remarkably diverse applications for which the technique is suited.

show abstract

Section: Zooms: Methods and State Of The Fieldmentioning

confidence: 99%

A primer for ZooMS applications in archaeology

Warinner

2022

Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…MALDI-TOF marker peptides to identify furs and textiles were originally developed using PCA methods and have been subsequently verified using LC–MS/MS or MALDI-TOF/TOF, providing genus level resolution for some groups of mammals ,,,,− and whale baleen . The only taxonomic group with available CBP markers providing genus level resolution is sea turtles. , The use of immunological assays to detect wool on metal artifacts and from textile imprints in soils is currently being investigated. , Increasing understanding of keratin and CBP diversity, for example differences in sheep wool pigmentation and curl/crimp related to domestication, selective breeding, and diet , and keratin texture variation associated with body location, disease, and age in humans, , may allow more information to be gleaned than just taxonomic classification.…”

Section: Applications In Paleoproteomicsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Raw silkworm silk is composed primarily of two proteins, fibroin and sericin, with several additional proteinases and functional proteins making up a minor component. During textile production, the nonfibroin proteins are removed, leaving fibroin as the dominant protein in archaeological silk. , While silks in modern and historic periods all derive from a single domesticated silkworm species from China ( Bombyx mori ), a number of other insects can also produce silk, including other wild silkworms and moths (especially Bombyx mandarina, Samia cynthia , Antheraea sp., and Philosamia sp.) and spiders (e.g., Nephila clavipes and Araneus diadematus ), and use of these silks has been documented historically and archaeologically in Asia, India, Europe, North America, and Australia. ,− Silks from B. mori and Antheraea pernyi can be distinguished proteomically by LC–MS/MS and immunological assays. , This has allowed silk textiles and their species of origin to be identified from sediments with textile imprints , as well as trace amounts of textile in contact with metal artifacts. , Further work on the characterization of fibronins from other species has the potential to greatly improve the understanding of silk production and trade and silkworm domestication.…”

Section: Applications In Paleoproteomicsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Collagens, keratins, and fibronins are collectively the major components of textiles and parchments produced from primary and secondary animal products, such as hide, skins, leather, wool, fur, felt, and silk. These materials are often culturally important, but ephemeral and underrepresented in the archaeological record, 251 although their preservation can be enhanced by contact with antimicrobial metals such as copper. Paleoproteomic methods can increase their visibility by improving taxonomic identifications and identifying trace remains.…”

Section: Proteinsmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Paleoproteomics

2022

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Paleoproteomics, the study of ancient proteins, is a rapidly growing field at the intersection of molecular biology, paleontology, archaeology, paleoecology, and history. Paleoproteomics research leverages the longevity and diversity of proteins to explore fundamental questions about the past. While its origins predate the characterization of DNA, it was only with the advent of soft ionization mass spectrometry that the study of ancient proteins became truly feasible. Technological gains over the past 20 years have allowed increasing opportunities to better understand preservation, degradation, and recovery of the rich bioarchive of ancient proteins found in the archaeological and paleontological records. Growing from a handful of studies in the 1990s on individual highly abundant ancient proteins, paleoproteomics today is an expanding field with diverse applications ranging from the taxonomic identification of highly fragmented bones and shells and the phylogenetic resolution of extinct species to the exploration of past cuisines from dental calculus and pottery food crusts and the characterization of past diseases. More broadly, these studies have opened new doors in understanding past human−animal interactions, the reconstruction of past environments and environmental changes, the expansion of the hominin fossil record through large scale screening of nondiagnostic bone fragments, and the phylogenetic resolution of the vertebrate fossil record. Even with these advances, much of the ancient proteomic record still remains unexplored. Here we provide an overview of the history of the field, a summary of the major methods and applications currently in use, and a critical evaluation of current challenges. We conclude by looking to the future, for which innovative solutions and emerging technology will play an important role in enabling us to access the still unexplored "dark" proteome, allowing for a fuller understanding of the role ancient proteins can play in the interpretation of the past.

show abstract

“…and 2164 in combination with m/z 2088. Several peaks had clear signs of deamidation indicating that the markers are more likely to be genuine and not contamination [see S1 File and 32 ]. A few peaks that may be human contamination can be observed.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Palaeoproteomics identifies beaver fur in Danish high-status Viking Age burials - direct evidence of fur trade

et al. 2022

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Fur is known from contemporary written sources to have been a key commodity in the Viking Age. Nevertheless, the fur trade has been notoriously difficult to study archaeologically as fur rarely survives in the archaeological record. In Denmark, fur finds are rare and fur in clothing has been limited to a few reports and not recorded systematically. We were therefore given access to fur from six Danish high status graves dated to the Viking Age. The fur was analysed by aDNA and palaeoproteomics methods to identify the species of origin in order to explore the Viking Age fur trade. Endogenous aDNA was not recovered, but fur proteins (keratins) were analysed by MALDI-TOF-MS and LC-MS/MS. We show that Viking Age skin clothing were often composites of several species, showing highly developed manufacturing and material knowledge. For example, fur was produced from wild animals while leather was made of domesticates. Several examples of beaver fur were identified, a species which is not native to Denmark, and therefore indicative of trade. We argue that beaver fur was a luxury commodity, limited to the elite and worn as an easily recognisable indicator of social status.

show abstract

Characterizing historical textiles and clothing with proteomics

Cited by 24 publications

References 86 publications

A primer for ZooMS applications in archaeology

A primer for ZooMS applications in archaeology

Paleoproteomics

Palaeoproteomics identifies beaver fur in Danish high-status Viking Age burials - direct evidence of fur trade

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About