Classification of washover dynamics in barrier islands

Matias, Ana; Ferreira, Óscar; Vila‐Concejo, Ana; Garcia, Tiago; Dias, João Alveirinho

doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2007.09.010

Cited by 91 publications

(60 citation statements)

References 21 publications

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“…Potential improvements in the methodology could include (i) considering the contribution of wave run-up to the TWLs (Perini et al, 2016;Serafin and Ruggiero, 2014); (ii) applying a multivariate approach for the extreme value statistics (Corbella and Stretch, 2013;Gouldby et al, 2014;Hawkes et al, 2002); and (iii) taking into account all the wave-related processes contributing to coastal flooding (i.e., erosion, overwash and breaching; e.g., Matias et al, 2008;McCall et al, 2010). The latter implies simulating a spectrum of hydro-and morphodynamic processes, and such application at European scale would be challenging, given the IT resources as well as the high-resolution data required.…”

Section: Towards An Improved Approach For Pan-european Coastal Flood mentioning

confidence: 99%

Developments in large-scale coastal flood hazard mapping

Vousdoukas

Voukouvalas

Mentaschi

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

193

157

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Abstract. Coastal flooding related to marine extreme events has severe socioeconomic impacts, and even though the latter are projected to increase under the changing climate, there is a clear deficit of information and predictive capacity related to coastal flood mapping. The present contribution reports on efforts towards a new methodology for mapping coastal flood hazard at European scale, combining (i) the contribution of waves to the total water level; (ii) improved inundation modeling; and (iii) an open, physics-based framework which can be constantly upgraded, whenever new and more accurate data become available. Four inundation approaches of gradually increasing complexity and computational costs were evaluated in terms of their applicability to large-scale coastal flooding mapping: static inundation (SM); a semidynamic method, considering the water volume discharge over the dykes (VD); the flood intensity index approach (Iw); and the model LISFLOOD-FP (LFP). A validation test performed against observed flood extents during the Xynthia storm event showed that SM and VD can lead to an overestimation of flood extents by 232 and 209 %, while Iw and LFP showed satisfactory predictive skill. Application at panEuropean scale for the present-day 100-year event confirmed that static approaches can overestimate flood extents by 56 % compared to LFP; however, Iw can deliver results of reasonable accuracy in cases when reduced computational costs are a priority. Moreover, omitting the wave contribution in the extreme total water level (TWL) can result in a ∼ 60 % underestimation of the flooded area. The present findings have implications for impact assessment studies, since combination of the estimated inundation maps with population exposure maps revealed differences in the estimated number of people affected within the 20-70 % range.

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Section: Towards An Improved Approach For Pan-european Coastal Flood mentioning

confidence: 99%

Developments in large-scale coastal flood hazard mapping

Vousdoukas

Voukouvalas

Mentaschi

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

193

157

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“…Both SIIs and the pre-defined thresholds are site-specific (Ciavola et al 2011a) and must be carefully selected on the grounds of existing experience and field data Almeida et al 2011a;Matias et al 2008;. For Faro Beach, the selected SIIs were (1) maximum wave runup height during the simulations; and (2) dune-foot horizontal retreat at the end of the simulations (d x,dune crest ).…”

Section: Extensions To Operational Storm Impact Forecastingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Toward reliable storm-hazard forecasts: XBeach calibration and its potential application in an operational early-warning system

et al. 2012

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The study aims to calibrate/validate and apply the dune-erosion model, XBeach, in order to predict morphological response to storm events along a meso-tidal, steeply sloping beach. More than 10,000 XBeach calibration runs, including different model parameters and erosion events, were compared with measurements of beach-profile response to storm conditions. Off-shore wave and tidal measurements were used as input for a SWAN wave model, which was used to provide wave conditions to XBeach. The results indicate that using XBeach to predict beachprofile morphodynamic response during storm events on steeply sloping intermediate-to-reflective beaches may be more demanding than for dissipative beaches and that the default model setup can overestimate dune/beach-face erosion. The performance of the model after calibration was satisfactory, with Brier Skill Scores from 0.2 to 0.72. XBeach was found to be more sensitive to input parameters such as the beach-face slope and the surf similarity parameter ξ (especially for values ξ>0.6). The calibrated XBeach setup was used for simulations of storm scenarios with different return periods (5, 25, and 50 years), and the simulations highlighted the fragility of the dune field and the potential for storm-induced dune retreat, lowering, and overwash in the study area. Finally, the nested SWAN/ XBeach models were forced by an existing operational wave-forecast WAVEWATCH-III/SWAN model, operated by the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute to generate daily forecasts of storm impact and serve as a prototype-case for an early warning system for storm hazard mitigation.

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“…Accurate prediction of the occurrence and morphological consequence of overtopping and overwash is of obvious importance for coastal flood risk assessment and management (Matias et al, 2008). Equally apparent is the relevance of being able to quantify and model cross-barrier groundwater fluxes, for example for assessing the dispersal of pollutants from coastal aquifers into the sea and saline intrusion as a result of sea-level rise (Andersen et al, 2007).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Large-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment II (BARDEX II): Experimental design, instrumentation, test program, and data set

Masselink

Ruju

Conley

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering

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Despite the increased sophistication of numerical models and field techniques for investigating wave-induced nearshore sediment transport and ensuing beach morphological response, there remains a significant demand for large-scale laboratory experiments to address this research topic. Here, we describe the Barrier Dynamics II experiment (BARDEX II), which involved placing a near prototype-scale sandy barrier in the middle of the Delta Flume in the Netherlands and subjecting the structure to a range of wave, tide and water level conditions. A unique aspect of the experiment was the presence of a lagoon behind the barrier, as often occurs in natural barrier settings, providing a convenient means to experimentally manipulate the groundwater hydrology within the barrier. The overall aim of the BARDEX II was to collect a large-scale data set of energetic waves acting on a sandy beach/barrier system to improve our quantitative understanding and modelling capability of shallow water sediment transport processes in the inner surf, swash and overwash zone. In this paper we introduce BARDEX II and provide a detailed description of the experiment, including the experimental design, instrumentation, test programme and data set, as well as presenting some examples of the morphological and hydrodynamic data set. We also reflect objectively on the strengths and weaknesses of the data set. This paper serves as an introduction to a special issue of Coastal Engineering, solely devoted to the results of BARDEX II.

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Classification of washover dynamics in barrier islands

Cited by 91 publications

References 21 publications

Developments in large-scale coastal flood hazard mapping

Developments in large-scale coastal flood hazard mapping

Toward reliable storm-hazard forecasts: XBeach calibration and its potential application in an operational early-warning system

Large-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment II (BARDEX II): Experimental design, instrumentation, test program, and data set

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