Climber’s Pulley Injuries

Moutet, F.; Bouyer, M.; Corcella, D.; Forli, Alexandra; Semere, Alessandro

doi:10.1007/978-3-030-02134-4_5

Cited by 1 publication

(1 citation statement)

References 13 publications

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“…The crimp grip can generate more force and that is why it is preferred among the climbers. The A2 pulley is the most common injury pulley [5]. The distal phalange of the finger stays on extension and this puts the FDP on insufficiency and increase the load on the FDS.…”

Section: What Have Been Missed?mentioning

confidence: 99%

Pulley Injury in Climbing – A New Concept to Understand and Prevent It

Vilella

2019

SCSOAJ

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The pulley injuries are not common among the average population, but when the subject is climbing (sports or rock, bouldering or leading) it gets clear that is common and lead the athlete to a path of serious consequences. There are not many articles in the scientific literature that exposes the pulley injuries in climbers. That is why there is no prevention guideline about it.With the evolution of the sport, the graduation level of difficulty in climbing will raise. Eventually the exposition of the climber to higher loads will rise also. This can be a factor for increased hand and finger injuries, specifically pulley injuries. The pulley act as supporters to the fingers tendons and helps to optimize the finger flexion, keeping the tendons close to the bones [1]. The pulleys are divided into 5 annular pulleys and 3 cruciform pulleys [1,2]. The pulleys A2 and A4 gets more attention at the studies because they are strictly related with the insertion of the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and with the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), respectively. With this relation, the loads on these pulleys are higher due the traction of the finger flexor tendons. The objective of this short review and new concept is to induce a new line of clinical reasoning when analyzing and treating athletes of climbing. The Climbing GripsThere are two common grips described in literature when the subject is pulley injuries, the crimp grip and slope grip. In the crimp grip the proximal interphalangeal joint stays in flexion and the distal interphalangeal joint stays in hyperextension. In the slope grip both interphalangeal joints stay in flexion [3]. In 2006 Vigouroux et al.described the amount of force on pulleys and tendons that each grip generates. The crimp grip was able to generate 36 times more forces in crimp grip than in the slope grip. The electromyogram exam the FDP was the prime flexor at the crimp grip [3], but that is one way to interpret the values. The FDP showed more intensity of contraction activity, but that is explained by the fact of the distal interphalangeal joint being hyper-extended. The action of the FDP is flexion of the interphalangeal joint, if it is on passive insufficiency (hyperextension of the interphalangeal joint), the FDP will try harder to flex the distal interphalangeal joint. It shows how much strength the FDP does in the crimp grip, when the FDS does not make that much strength (it is not on passive insufficiency). So, the prime flexor at the crimp grip turns to be the FDS.

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Section: What Have Been Missed?mentioning

confidence: 99%

Pulley Injury in Climbing – A New Concept to Understand and Prevent It

Vilella

2019

SCSOAJ

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

Climber’s Pulley Injuries

Cited by 1 publication

References 13 publications

Pulley Injury in Climbing – A New Concept to Understand and Prevent It

Pulley Injury in Climbing – A New Concept to Understand and Prevent It

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