Coaches’ Attitudes Toward Campus Board Training in Adolescent Climbers in the United States

Abstract

Introduction-Campus board training in adolescent climbers is controversial. Evidence, albeit limited, suggests this type of training may lead to the development of finger epiphyseal stress fractures. The purpose of the present study was to investigate coaches' attitudes toward campus board training in the United States. Methods-Surveys were sent to 116 coaches at gyms across the United States with affiliated adolescent climbing teams. Outcomes collected included demographic information, training time, campus board use prevalence, coaches' attitudes toward campus board use, and willingness to participate in future research.Results-Seventy-three coaches representing 3090 adolescent climbers completed the survey. Fortysix coaches (63%) reported using full weight (no foot contact) campus board training in some or all of their climbers. A variety of factors were cited by coaches when deciding which climbers should or should not use the campus board, including physical maturity, climbing ability, and age, among others.Conclusions-Climbing coaches in the United States disagree on the use of campus board training in adolescent climbers. Some coaches avoid using this training modality entirely, whereas others believe certain climbers can use it safely. There is lack of consensus in determining who those certain climbers are.

Early Sport Specialization and Past Injury in Competitive Youth Rock Climbers

“…22,48 Thus, it has been suggested that campus board training, along with weighted hangboarding, should be limited in youth climbers. 23,27,49 Despite this, many of our participants used these training methods at least once a week, with several starting at a young age. Three out of the 4 climbers who reported epiphyseal finger fractures in our study also reported consistent use of campus board training.…”