Combined use of two formulations containing diacetyl boldine, <scp>TGF</scp>‐<i>β</i>1 biomimetic oligopeptide‐68 with other hypopigmenting/exfoliating agents and sunscreen provides effective and convenient treatment for facial melasma. Either is equal to or is better than 4% hydroquinone on normal skin

Pratchyapurit, Walai-orn

doi:10.1111/jocd.12201

Cited by 13 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Melanosomes containing melanin pigments are transported to the neighboring keratinocytes . One study suggests that diacetyl boldine serum and DAB/TGF‐b1 biomimetic oligopeptide‐68/sunscreen cream use was effective and safe for facial melasma . From our in vitro and 3D spheroid coculture studies, we identified caprylic/capric triglyceride and diacetyl boldine (active B) as a single active to significantly inhibit melanin production and melanin synthesis through regulation of MITF gene expression in melanocytes (Figure A‐D).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 91%

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

Khmaladze¹,

Österlund²,

Smiljanic³

et al. 2019

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Background: High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process.Aim: To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin. Methods: In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays. Results: In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts. Conclusion: Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies. How to cite this article: Khmaladze I, Österlund C, Smiljanic S, et al. A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 91%

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

Khmaladze¹,

Österlund²,

Smiljanic³

et al. 2019

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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“…1,20 However, a study revealed that the value of SPF is not essential in terms of the sufficient amount and frequency of application of the sunscreen. 21 In our study, the most common reason behind not using sunscreen was the high cost followed by numerous side effects of these products. Alqarqaz et al 18 reported similar findings.…”

Section: Ta B L E 1 Demographic Characteristics Of Study Participantsmentioning

confidence: 67%

“…Furthermore, some studies reported that a sunscreen of SPF of at least 30 or more is recommended for good protection against sunlight 1,20 . However, a study revealed that the value of SPF is not essential in terms of the sufficient amount and frequency of application of the sunscreen 21 …”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Disease characteristics, determinants, and perception of use of sunscreen and sun‐protective behaviors among patients of color with melasma: A cross‐sectional study

Seetan

Shatanawi

Ali

et al. 2022

Photoderm Photoimm Photomed

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Melasma (a Greek word meaning black) is an acquired state of hypermelanosis that is common and occurs mainly on the face and neck, as well as on the forearms on rare occasions. It affects both males and females, but it is more common in females, especially among pregnant women (50%-70%). 1 Even though the pathophysiology is not well understood, a direct relationship between melasma and the female's hormonal factors may exist; the marked increase of melasma cases may explain this during pregnancy and among users

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“…Approximately 2.6% of subjects had a significant improvement, 76.3% had a modest improvement, and 21.1% had a slight improvement. Each formulation was shown to be more effective than hydroquinone or to work faster in reducing pigmentation [ 102 ]. Revitol's product “Skin Brightener” contains Lumiskin with some patented ingredients, namely diacetyl boldine, that affect the expression of tyrosinase [ 11 ].…”

Section: Natural Products As Skin Whitening Agentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Natural products in cosmetics

Liu

2022

Nat. Prod. Bioprospect.

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The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

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Combined use of two formulations containing diacetyl boldine, TGF‐β1 biomimetic oligopeptide‐68 with other hypopigmenting/exfoliating agents and sunscreen provides effective and convenient treatment for facial melasma. Either is equal to or is better than 4% hydroquinone on normal skin

Abstract: Combination of DAB serum at night and DAB/TGF-β1 biomimetic oligopeptide-68/sunscreen cream in the morning and at noon was effective and safe for facial melasma. They were superior to HQ in pigment reduction.

Cited by 13 publications

References 20 publications

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

Disease characteristics, determinants, and perception of use of sunscreen and sun‐protective behaviors among patients of color with melasma: A cross‐sectional study

Natural products in cosmetics

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