Complete Breaker Analysis using Velocity Potential of Linear Wave Theory

Abstract

In this research, breaker equations were developed to conduct breaker height, breaker depth and breaker length calculations. Wave number conservation equation and mass/energy conservation equation are extracted from velocity potential equation to be used in the formulation of breaker equations. Breaker depth equation is obtained from wave number conservation equation, breaker steepness equation is obtained from kinematic free surface boundary condition and using energy conservation equation of linear wave theory, relation between breaker height and breaker depth is obtained.

Application of Weighted Total Acceleration Equation on Wavelength Calculation

“…In order for (8) to be able to be performed only up to the first derivative, then at (10) is the value of since it is determined only based on the function of time without the interaction with the changes toward space. With = , the value of γ can be calculated at (7).…”

“…EQUATIONS FROM VELOCITY POTENTIAL This part has been written by Hutahaean (2019), however; considering that equations in this part are very important for this research, it will be rewritten.…”

“…... (7). At(7), the lower part of equation can be taken out from the absolute operation | | , since it always has positive value. At (7) there are two unknowns, i.e.…”