“…The sawtooth-like shape of nearly breaking and broken waves is associated with large fluid accelerations and decelerations during the passage of the steep wave faces, followed by relatively smaller decelerations during the passage of the gently sloping rear of the wave, producing a skewed acceleration profile. Field observations [Hanes and Huntley, 1986, Elgar et al, 2001, Foster et al, 2002, laboratory experiments [Madsen, 1974, Cox et al, 1991, King, 1991, Sleath, 1999, and numerical simulations [Drake and Calantoni, 2001, Hsu and Hanes, in preparation] suggest that fluid accelerations may have a significant effect on sediment transport. Two-phase sheet flow simulations [Hsu and Hanes, in preparation] corroborate previous field observations [Madsen, 1974, Foster et al, 2002 that indicate severe bed failure under the large flow accelerations, or horizontal pressure gradients, that precede maximum onshore velocities of near-broken waves in the surfzone.…”