Fast-atom bombardment mass spectrometry (FAB-MS, both in the positive-and negative-ion modes) and gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) were applied for the rapid identification of the main ingredients of two widely employed cosmetic products, a mascara and a semipermanent hair dye. FAB-MS, on the untreated product (hair dye) or on a crude methanol extract (mascara) gives an unequivocal fingerprint of involatile constituents, i.e. surfactants, anionic (cetyl/stearyl soaps) in mascara and cationic (polyethoxylated oleyl/linoleyl/ricinoleyl-methyl ammonium chloride) in the hair dye. GC/MS (n-hexane and chloroform extracts), detects hydrocarbons, volatile silicon compounds, perfume components, preservatives and antioxidants in mascara and fatty acids ( The quality control of a cosmetic product is not only important from a technological point of view, to guarantee to the consumer the expected cosmetic performance and to verify that it satisfies the legislative requirements, but above all to avoid the risk of toxic reactions due to contaminants. The inspection becomes urgent and essential when a toxic adverse reaction (e.g. cosmetic dermatitis) is experienced by a consumer and/ or when fraudulence is suspected. This challenges the analytical chemist to a difficult task, because of the multi-ingredient composition of cosmetic products, the wide variety of cosmetic formulations on the market and the ever increasing availability of new raw materials (more than 8,000 raw materials and fragrances ingredients are available to the cosmetic chemist!).Continuing our interest in the field of quality control of cosmetics, raw materials and finished formulations, [1][2][3][4] in the present work we evaluated the potential of mass spectrometry for the rapid identification of the main components of two widely used "stay-on" products, viz a mascara and a hair dye, both chosen because of the well known problem of toxicity associated with colourants (and to their decomposition or by-products) since they are close to, or actually in contact with mucous membranes. The problem was approached by a combination of gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) and fast-atom bombardment mass spectrometry (FAB-MS) techniques, in an attempt to draw up a protocol/guideline for the rapid analysis of these potentially irritant formulations.
EXPERIMENTAL
Chemicals and apparatusAll the solvents used were analytical grade (Merck, Bracco, Milan, Italy). The mascara and the direct hair dye were from commercial sources. GC/MS determinations were performed under the following experimental conditions:(a) Mascara. C. Erba (Milan, Italy) Fractovap model gas chromatograph equipped with a capillary column (fused silica SE54, 25 m ϫ 0.32 mm i.d.); programming temperature: 70 °C-300 °C (7 °C/min); injector temperature: 270 °C; carrier gas helium (30 cm.s