Controlling fibrillation – experiences of the dyeing and finishing of lyocell fibres

Abstract

This review centres on the development of dyeing and finishing technologies for lyocell (TENCEL®) fibres since they were introduced onto the market in 1992. Initially, it will look at the reason for starting manufacture of the fibre and its manufacturing technology. An overview of basic dyeing performance is followed by a critical assessment of the fibre's introduction into the commercial world and the problems that ensued from its fibrillation property. The review then outlines the pioneering process development efforts made in Japan. Dye machinery manufacturers also played an important role in developing processing routes, particularly, but not exclusively, Then, Thies, and Krantz. Courtaulds Tencel formed an alliance with Sir T & A Wardles of Courtaulds Textiles, setting up a project to demonstrate successful jet processing of lyocell fabrics. Investment in jet dyeing machines and personnel was critical: the review explains how it was done and results that were achieved. It also considers how to control fabric behaviour in relation to creasing and fibrillation. The latter phenomenon held the fibre back from knitted applications. Both Courtaulds and Lenzing developed non‐fibrillating versions of the fibres. This review covers these advances, as well as how new markets have been developed for the fibre, such as workwear and bed sheeting. It concludes by looking at the key market segments today and how Lenzing sees the lyocell market evolving.

Alkali pretreatments and crosslinking of lyocell fabrics

“…If woven fabrics are treated with alkali in open-width form before wet processing, it prevents the formation of such creases (Burrow 1998;Taylor 2015). In alkali, the levels of fiber/yarn swelling are far greater than with water, and that increases the yarn crimp.…”

Lyocell Fabric Dyed with Natural Dye Extracted from Marigold Flower Using Metallic Salts

“…However, the lyocell is a natural, manmade regenerated cellulosic fi ber which is obtained from wood pulp. It is an excellent ecological fabric that represents a landmark in the development of environmentally sustainable textiles [23][24][25]. In our previous work, we dyed lyocell fabric with natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel [26] and obtained good colorfastness properties.…”

A New Environmentally-Friendly Method of Dyeing Lyocell/Cotton Blended Fabrics

“…24,29 Today, it is very important economically and ecologically to provide greater color strength with the same amount of dye for textile dyeing, as the industry is under severe pressure with regards to environmentally-related issues. 30,31 Understanding dyeing behavior when fibrillated lyocell fiber is used alone or in blends with other fibers is important, although fibrillation can be inhibited to some extent by open-width processing, resination, or pre-treatment with sodium hydroxide and enzymes. 13,[31][32][33][34][35][36] The present study examined the exhaust dyeing properties of Tencel/cotton blended fabrics using different processes.…”

“…30,31 Understanding dyeing behavior when fibrillated lyocell fiber is used alone or in blends with other fibers is important, although fibrillation can be inhibited to some extent by open-width processing, resination, or pre-treatment with sodium hydroxide and enzymes. 13,[31][32][33][34][35][36] The present study examined the exhaust dyeing properties of Tencel/cotton blended fabrics using different processes. The blended knit fabrics used in this study were developed to assess new dyeing process possibilities intended for commercial release.…”