Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions

Abstract

Plant selection, input, and field management are proven strategies that produce high yields of crops bearing selected desirable characteristics for the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industry. This study reports on the effect of substrate and light on selected quantitative and qualitative bioactive properties of two cultivars of Rubus idaeus L. ('Ruvi' and 'Cayuga'). Our results demonstrated that the quantitative and qualitative fruit characteristics (yield, fruit dimensions, titratable acidity, and total soluble solids contents), plant growth, biosynthesis of secondary metabolites, and total antioxidant capacity, are significantly affected by genotype, light intensity, and substrate type. Fruits from 'Ruvi' plants cultivated under low light conditions, on soil/peat substrate exhibited high levels of antioxidant capacity, phenolics, flavonoids, anthocyanins, and high inhibitory potency towards the skin-regulating enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. Extract derived from these fruits was formulated into a topical skin care cream. This cream exhibited excellent compatibility and stability characteristics. Our research concluded that quantity and quality of Rubus idaeus L. fruits could be efficiently managed through conventional agronomic practices. Our project determined the optimal agronomic management practices to produce desirable characteristics and maximize bioactive content that determine the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical quality of the red raspberry.

Comparison of the Micromorphology and Ultrastructure of Pollen Grains of Selected Rubus idaeus L. Cultivars Grown in Commercial Plantation

“…Given the commercial production of its fruit, Rubus idaeus has considerable economic importance in Europe and Poland [ 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 ]. Raspberry fruit is intended either for direct consumption or for processing in many industries: food [ 20 , 28 , 29 , 30 , 31 ], pharmaceutical [ 20 , 28 , 32 , 33 ], cosmetic [ 28 , 30 , 33 , 34 , 35 , 36 ], and nanotechnological [ 37 , 38 , 39 , 40 ] industries. Raspberry shrubs are a source of medicinal and cosmetic raw materials, i.e., Rubi idaeus fructus [ 41 , 42 , 43 , 44 , 45 ] and Rubi idaeus folium [ 20 , 46 , 47 , 48 ].…”

Plant Complexity and Cosmetic Innovation

“…Alkaloids have also been reported in response to drought stress, together with salinity that causes oxidative stress and leads to an increase in phenolic molecules. By identifying the optimal cultivation conditions ( Papaioanou et al., 2018 ), it is possible to tune the composition in secondary metabolites and antioxidant activity as shown for raspberry Rubus idaeus L. and the effects on quantitative and qualitative fruit characteristics. Altitude with its higher solar UV radiation and lower temperatures also plays an important role, as winemakers challenged by climate change well know ( Falcao et al., 2010 ), and is reflected especially in the composition of phenolic compounds, i.e., total amount of UV-absorbing caffeic acid derivatives ( Spitaler et al., 2008 ).…”

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

“…Nowadays, the plant extracts are becoming the most popular active ingredients of cosmetics due to the ever-increasing demand for natural compounds which in addition to esthetic looks can provide additional health benefits. However, the quality and phytochemical profiles of plant extracts varied in wide range, depending on climate, soil, latitude, seasonal factors, time of harvest, and the field management practice, which could be a challenge to standardize their activities [12]. Indeed, plants are rich in endogenous bioactive metabolites with potential cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications [7-9].…”

“…Because of this, huge numbers of plant sources have been explored by the cosmetics industry in search of innovative active ingredients which combine some specific pharmacological properties, such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, antiviral, anticancer, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, etc., and also showing strong moisturizing, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and UV protective effects [11]. However, the quality and phytochemical profiles of plant extracts varied in wide range, depending on climate, soil, latitude, seasonal factors, time of harvest, and the field management practice, which could be a challenge to standardize their activities [12]. The search for novel natural phytochemicals has led to the gathering bioactive extracts not only by plants, but also from mushrooms, algae, and also, by utilization of by-products of plant origins [13][14][15][16][17].…”

“…However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture -derived active cosmetic ingredients. However, the quality and phytochemical profiles of plant extracts varied in wide range, depending on climate, soil, latitude, seasonal factors, time of harvest, and the field management practice, which could be a challenge to standardize their activities [12]. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.…”