Leading e-commerce providers have built large and complicated systems to provide countrywide or even worldwide services. However, there have been few substantive studies on e-commerce systems in real world. In this paper, we investigate the systems of Tmall and JD, the top-two most popular e-commerce websites in China, with a measurement approach. By analyzing traffics from campus network, we present a characterization study that covers several features, including usage patterns and shopping behaviors, of the e-commerce workload; in particular, we characterize the massive flash crowd in the Double-11 Day, which is the biggest online shopping festival in the world. We also reveal Tmall and JD's e-commerce infrastructures, including content delivery networks (CDNs) and clouds, and evaluate their performances under the flash crowd. We find that Tmall's CDN proactively throttles bandwidths for ensuring low but guaranteed throughputs, while JD still follows the best-effort way, leading to poor and unstable performances; both providers do not have sufficient capacities in their private clouds, resulting in extraordinarily long transaction latencies. Based on the insights obtained from measurement, we discuss the design choices of e-commerce CDNs, and investigate the potential benefits brought by incorporating client-side assistances in offloading massive flash crowd of e-commerce workloads.