Counter-narratives Towards Sustainability in Fashion. Scoping an Academic Discourse on Fashion Activism through a Case Study on the Centre for Sustainable Fashion

Abstract

To counter the mainstream fashion system, which is proving unsustainable in terms of autonomous livelihoods, cultural heritage, social equality, and environmental stewardship, some designers are playing an activist role, challenging the status quo and activating positive change. With this in mind, we have embarked on an on-going research project aimed at exploring ways in which design activism can create counter-narratives towards sustainability in fashion. This paper explores these ideas through a case study focused on the Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF). Through semi-structured interviews and a co-creation workshop, we mapped out examples of work undertaken by CSF members, and elicited their contribution to building a transformed fashion system. Hence, in this paper we articulate the diversity of roles, values, skills, and methods that fashion activists can adopt, as well as some of the challenges and opportunities for designers and researchers in transforming the fashion system towards sustainability.

Activism for sustainable fashion: the designers' role

“…Nesse contexto de ativismo internacional pela moda sustentável, Mazzarella, Storey & Williams (2019) argumentam que os designers assumem um papel de agentes de mudança, ou catalisadores para transformação do cenário da moda insustentável rompendo com o papel de facilitador (apoiador de iniciativas) em direção ao papel de um ativista (fazer as coisas acontecerem) (MERONI & SANGIORGI, 2011).…”

“…Fuad-Luke ( 2009) já convocava os designers a criar uma contra-narrativa destinada a gerar e equilibrar os impactos positivos e negativos da indústria da moda para a sustentabilidade. O discurso foi endossado por autores como DiSalvo (2010), Julier (2011), Markussen (2011), Manzini (2014) dentre tantos outros, que ressaltam o papel do designer de redesenhar as realidades de forma aberta, participativa e imaginativa para a criação de possibilidades de enfrentamento dos Dessa forma, Mazzarella, Storey & Williams (2019) elencaram como funções do designer ativista na área de moda: (a) criação de contra-narrativas, (b) intervenções baseada em valores socioambientais, (c) habilidades multifacetada, (d) ferramentas e abordagens, (e) desafios, (f) resultados das intervenções de ativistas de moda, (g) criação de oportunidades.…”

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ResumoEste artigo parte do pressuposto de que o estudo das práticas de ativistas da moda sustentável pode fornecer reflexões sobre as motivações e contextos que conduzem a comportamentos na relação produção-consumo mais conscientes e menos prejudiciais ao meio ambiente. Assim, o objetivo foi examinar o papel de designers brasileiras como ativistas na moda, a partir da proposta de Mazzarella, Storey & Williams (2019). Utilizando uma abordagem qualitativa, que contou com 6 entrevistas em profundidade cujos dados foram analisados a partir de análise de conteúdo (Bardin, 1977) foi possível identificar elementos que evidenciam um ativismo ainda muito tímido.

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Fashioning Change: Fashion Activism and Its Outcomes on Local Communities

“…In New Zealand, Jennifer Whitty and Holly McQuillan initiated "The Wardrobe Hack", an individual and modifiable set of self-determined actions, inactions, tasks and exercises designed to deliver power into the hands, minds and bodies of all users of fashion. Several projects led by researchers at Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UAL (CSF) have adopted a fashion activism approach, as discussed by Mazzarella et al (2019). For instance, in "I Stood Up", Dilys Williams (2018) created the conditions for a series of garment making and wearing taking place over time with diverse participants, including first time voters and members of the UK Parliament realizing visual representations of issues of public concern.…”

Circular Economy in Industrial Design Research: A Review

“…Fashion brands and retailers can use the "open door" platform to transform their textile waste into high-quality fibers and eventually knitted and woven fabrics for fashion. Another case study in the fashion industry looks at the diversity of roles, values, skills, and methods that fashion activists can adopt and at some of the challenges and opportunities for designers and researchers interested in transforming the fashion system towards sustainability [73]. Scholarly works that look at other industry sectors are sparser.…”