Design and application of water‐in‐oil emulsions for use in lipstick formulations

Abstract

The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural properties of the designed products was investigated. It has been shown that PGPR leads to smaller droplets than the other emulsifiers tested. This was attributed to the ability of PGPR to form elastic interfaces that slow the coalescence between droplets during the process. It was also observed that crystals of wax tend to form structures at the interface upon cooling that prevent coalescence during storage. These structures also prevent leakage of water into the continuous phase. No effect of the water content on the melting properties of the emulsions was observed. Upon addition of more than 10% water, softening of the material was measured, due to the overall decrease in solid content. Addition of crystalline material (hard paraffin) was successfully used to reinstate the material properties.

Effect of emulsifier type and concentration, aqueous phase volume and wax ratio on physical, material and mechanical properties of water in oil lipsticks

“…Previous literature has shown that by increasing the number of crystals, a more rigid network is produced [5]. Therefore, G' (i.e.…”

“…were compressed using a texture analyser. The data (force/distance) were then converted into true stress and true [2][3][4][5], and the Young's modulus was calculated using a method described by Norton et al [10]. Figure 4(a) shows the relationship between carnauba wax concentration and both Young's modulus and point of fracture: as the percentage of carnauba wax increases from 5% to 20%, Young's modulus increases from 0.001 to 0.04 MPa, respectively.…”

Improved properties of lipstick formulation with engkabang fats

“…Texture profile analysis on formulated products was conducted by using Heavy Duty Texture Analyser (TA.HD.plus Texture Analyser, Stable Micro Systems, Godalmig). [4,8,9] Moisture analysis Moisture loss of lipsticks was determined by moisture analyser (XM 120, Precisa, Switzerland). Lipsticks were placed in an aluminium plate and heated at 40°C for 4 h. [5] RESULT AND DISCUSSION pH There are very low significant differences between control and engkabang fats lipsticks.…”

“…Moisture in lips is primarily supplied by the saliva, giving lips the tendency to dry out, especially in cold and dry weather. [3,4] Therefore, the prime duty of lips care preparations is to prevent the drying and cracking of the lips. A moisturising lipstick soothes and prevents chapped lips by deeply hydrating the very delicate outer skin cells on the lips.…”

Development of Water in Olive Oil (W/O) Nanoemulsions as Lipstick Base Formulation

“…The system of water-in-oil emulsion is the solution to overcome this problem. Several experiments have been conducted to manufacture lipstick by adding water in oil emulsions [5], [6]. However, the addition of water emulsified in the preparation of lipstick still leave some problems for example discoloration, less homogeneous mixing of the components of lipstick, the discharge of water from the droplet at the time of molding and changing physical properties, undesirable brittle and hardness [7].…”